i have a climbing hydrangea bush that was planted 2 years ago. It is growing good and gets bigger each year but, it has not had any flowers since i have had it. Does anybody know why?
Climbing hydrangea bushes?
Hydrangeas bloom on older growth. Of course, you must prune them, but prune them sparingly, so you will have older growth for blooms. Feed them Miracle Gro!
Reply:My housemate has a fine hydrangea bush. The previous respondents to this question are correct; it takes time for a flowering shrub to develop flowers. (Same as with lilacs--it takes several years for a sapling to mature and bear flowers.) A bit off the topic, but I'll add it anyway: After doing a bit of research, I discovered that a good way to encourage next year's flowers is to deadhead this year's old withered flowers. "Deadheading" means to prune old flowers or withered remnants of blooms. The flowerheads are easily snapped off after they become brown and dry.
Reply:Mine is not a climber, but last year I had only four or five flowers. This year there must be 500. It's lovely. I only cut back about half way. Hydrangea loves coffee grounds. Just dump and rake in close to the bush.
Reply:Do you talk to it?
Also if that doesn't work try some "blooming mix" plant food.
Reply:because the soil is not good
Reply:you may need two bushes to cross pollinate each other
Reply:Which of the two plants listed below is that you are referring to?
Decumaria barbara if this one then it is going to be some time before it flowers. This species flowers only after reaching maturity and a certain height (~20ft).
Hydrangea anomala syn. petiolaris if it is this species how much light and what kind of light is it getting? This species also has some soil and temperature limitations.
Reply:I think I heard Martha S. say that they have to be a few years older to bloom, and need good support cause they get really big. be patient, I'm still waiting for my wisteria to bloom , been 6 years .
Tuesday, November 17, 2009
I Have a Hydrangea Plant and I am wanting to know how to take care of it.?
http://www.hydrangeasplus.com/pages.php?...
Tells you pretty much everything :)
I Have a Hydrangea Plant and I am wanting to know how to take care of it.?
Depending on if it is outside or inside Hydrangea plant which i 'am not sure which one u have!
If it's outside one then u must dig the 2x bigger then the pot.Then make mix. of soil an peat to give a well moisture soil but not to wet thou ..so the roots has place to grow faster out an stronger before it hit the real soil be on the mix.
Hope this might help plus the links too...!
Tells you pretty much everything :)
I Have a Hydrangea Plant and I am wanting to know how to take care of it.?
Depending on if it is outside or inside Hydrangea plant which i 'am not sure which one u have!
If it's outside one then u must dig the 2x bigger then the pot.Then make mix. of soil an peat to give a well moisture soil but not to wet thou ..so the roots has place to grow faster out an stronger before it hit the real soil be on the mix.
Hope this might help plus the links too...!
Will my Hydrangea survive?
My boyfriend thought he was being helpful and decided to get rid of the plants that the exterminator said shouldn't be so close to our house. He pruned my hydrangea bush down to the nub! It's my favorite plant and I'm a little upset. I'm wondering if I replant the bush in a different location will it survive even though it was drastically pruned? I'm new to plants and gardening so I'm not sure. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
Will my Hydrangea survive?
wait.... the plant has had a tremendous shock and you should not add another shock on top of that one by transplanting it now.... wait and let it send out new leaves and a couple branches ... see that it's watered as needed and give a diluted feeding to help it along... not much fertilizer, just something as a boost..... move it in fall .... early enuff to give it time to put down new roots and recover from THAT shock before cold weather..... again, water well at planting and as needed after....
Reply:Oh yes...it will be fine...plant it in shade to part sun...Fertilize it w/ potassium sulfate(hydranea fertilizer). not likely to see blooms this year. Keep it watered 1-2 times per week...Do not destroy any roots upon re-planting. Replant w/ good peat moss/ top soil...
Reply:I agree. The majority of hydrangeas grow on old AND new wood. It may not be as full this year but shoudl recooperate.
Reply:It might be fine, and will again grow, it just might not bloom any flowers this season. Leave it alone, and see what happens.
Reply:Yes it should survive from the root.
Kung Fu school
Will my Hydrangea survive?
wait.... the plant has had a tremendous shock and you should not add another shock on top of that one by transplanting it now.... wait and let it send out new leaves and a couple branches ... see that it's watered as needed and give a diluted feeding to help it along... not much fertilizer, just something as a boost..... move it in fall .... early enuff to give it time to put down new roots and recover from THAT shock before cold weather..... again, water well at planting and as needed after....
Reply:Oh yes...it will be fine...plant it in shade to part sun...Fertilize it w/ potassium sulfate(hydranea fertilizer). not likely to see blooms this year. Keep it watered 1-2 times per week...Do not destroy any roots upon re-planting. Replant w/ good peat moss/ top soil...
Reply:I agree. The majority of hydrangeas grow on old AND new wood. It may not be as full this year but shoudl recooperate.
Reply:It might be fine, and will again grow, it just might not bloom any flowers this season. Leave it alone, and see what happens.
Reply:Yes it should survive from the root.
Kung Fu school
Looking for a hearty Hydrangea that will do well in Zone 5 and last multiple years.?
I've always wanted a hydrangea bush (preferably BLUE!) - now that I am a homeowner, I'd like to plant one and have the perfect place with morning light, afternoon shade. Last year I planted one and it did really well but it was small and didn't make it through the winter.
Is there any specific type of hydrangea that will do best in Zone 5? How large of a plant should I buy? Our local nurserys have no information and the staff is of no help.
Looking forward to receiving answers. THANK YOU!
Looking for a hearty Hydrangea that will do well in Zone 5 and last multiple years.?
I'm in zone 5 too and hydrangeas do great here ( except for that late frost we got). You can change the color of almost all pink flowering varieties by adding Aluminum sulfate to the soil. This will make them bloom blue. Add it now, and again right before blooming to keep them blue. Check out your local counties extension office, master gardeners website. They will have researched based information. Good luck. And be careful when pruning as hydrangeas bloom on second years growth.
Reply:I have a hard time believing the local people can't help. I am in zone 5, too, and tons of people have hydrangeas. Why not just go buy one that is for sale, anywhere in your town. If they're for sale there, they must be cold tolerant.
Reply:http://springhillnursery.com/product.asp...
Reply:I don't have a hard time believing your local salespeople aren't helpful. Last year I wanted a "Limelight" hydrangea that has light green flowers, and the salespeople in my area didnt have a clue. I ended up buying some off an ebay seller and they have lots of little leaves forming this spring in my Zone 5 area.
I don't know if hydrangeas produce a true blue, but I know I've seen a purple-y blue. It's out there, but you may have to go to the 'net to find it.
Reply:I saw blue (nikko blue) Hydrangea for sale through park seeds.com and they are rated to zone 5. I'm in 5 or 6 depending upon the mood of the weather that year. They don't like alkaline soil, so follow the suggestion of the answer with the aluminum. I'm going to! we have VERY alkaline soil and they will turn out pink instead of blue. use this link:
http://www.parkseed.com/webapp/wcs/store...
And for Waysidegardens.com: http://www.waysidegardens.com/webapp/wcs...
Good luck!
Reply:I'm in Zone 8(by USDA, but Zone 5 by Sunset). I have some hydrangea bushes and all of them are doing good. I have blue and white kind. I think that this plants prefer more warmer climate than Zone 5, like 6 - 9, but if you mulch them good during the winter time, I think they will be ok. My blue guys are, "Nikko Blue" with light blue and "Blue Bird" with a bit more darker blue. I hope you can try one more time and see if it'll survive your weather. I'd buy a bigger bush. Perhaps, it's more stronger than young ones. You can ask your local master gardener the questions, too. Most of the time, city or county has a program for that. Good luck!
Is there any specific type of hydrangea that will do best in Zone 5? How large of a plant should I buy? Our local nurserys have no information and the staff is of no help.
Looking forward to receiving answers. THANK YOU!
Looking for a hearty Hydrangea that will do well in Zone 5 and last multiple years.?
I'm in zone 5 too and hydrangeas do great here ( except for that late frost we got). You can change the color of almost all pink flowering varieties by adding Aluminum sulfate to the soil. This will make them bloom blue. Add it now, and again right before blooming to keep them blue. Check out your local counties extension office, master gardeners website. They will have researched based information. Good luck. And be careful when pruning as hydrangeas bloom on second years growth.
Reply:I have a hard time believing the local people can't help. I am in zone 5, too, and tons of people have hydrangeas. Why not just go buy one that is for sale, anywhere in your town. If they're for sale there, they must be cold tolerant.
Reply:http://springhillnursery.com/product.asp...
Reply:I don't have a hard time believing your local salespeople aren't helpful. Last year I wanted a "Limelight" hydrangea that has light green flowers, and the salespeople in my area didnt have a clue. I ended up buying some off an ebay seller and they have lots of little leaves forming this spring in my Zone 5 area.
I don't know if hydrangeas produce a true blue, but I know I've seen a purple-y blue. It's out there, but you may have to go to the 'net to find it.
Reply:I saw blue (nikko blue) Hydrangea for sale through park seeds.com and they are rated to zone 5. I'm in 5 or 6 depending upon the mood of the weather that year. They don't like alkaline soil, so follow the suggestion of the answer with the aluminum. I'm going to! we have VERY alkaline soil and they will turn out pink instead of blue. use this link:
http://www.parkseed.com/webapp/wcs/store...
And for Waysidegardens.com: http://www.waysidegardens.com/webapp/wcs...
Good luck!
Reply:I'm in Zone 8(by USDA, but Zone 5 by Sunset). I have some hydrangea bushes and all of them are doing good. I have blue and white kind. I think that this plants prefer more warmer climate than Zone 5, like 6 - 9, but if you mulch them good during the winter time, I think they will be ok. My blue guys are, "Nikko Blue" with light blue and "Blue Bird" with a bit more darker blue. I hope you can try one more time and see if it'll survive your weather. I'd buy a bigger bush. Perhaps, it's more stronger than young ones. You can ask your local master gardener the questions, too. Most of the time, city or county has a program for that. Good luck!
My blue hydrangea is turning green and the the leaves are brown starting with the tips and going to the stem.?
My blue hydrangea looked really good when I bought it 2 months ago but now the blooms have turned green and the tips of the leaves have turned brown and started to curl upward. It is planted in a pot about 3 times its size and gets
shade all the time. This is the first time that I have ever had a hydrangea and I don't know what to do for it please help!!!
My blue hydrangea is turning green and the the leaves are brown starting with the tips and going to the stem.?
It must be very hot in Central Texas. The hydrangea you bought was grown in ideal conditions -cool temperatures, bright indirect light, ample water and acidic soil. When the blooms turn green, it means there's not enough acid in the soil and the leaves curling up and browning means, it is not watered enough or the soil is not rich and prorous. To rescue the plant, it should be taken indoors until the heat of summer dies down., otherwise, keep the hydrangea in semishade, apply aluminum sulfate ( to make the soil acidic, if you really prefer blue blooms) and water it daily until soaking wet.
Reply:?
Reply:you didn't say what region you live in, but generally, hydrangeas need some sunlight. Also, good soil irrigation is needed during the summer months. Since it is potted, it should have some loose soil (just add some substance to keep it loose, including peralite) to insure good drainage and steady watering habits. These plants prefer slightly moist soil. I'm not familiar with all species, but there is a new hybrid that is tinged with green color. But, allowing for good watering, drainage and ample sunlight, the soil may need a fertilizer boost. Lack of nitrogen cause slow growth and yellowing leaves. Potassium is needed for good photosynthesis. A shortage is indicated by mottled yellow or pale green mature leaves with scorched edges and less than usual flower yield. A boost of miracle grow with a bit or morning sun may do the trick!
shade all the time. This is the first time that I have ever had a hydrangea and I don't know what to do for it please help!!!
My blue hydrangea is turning green and the the leaves are brown starting with the tips and going to the stem.?
It must be very hot in Central Texas. The hydrangea you bought was grown in ideal conditions -cool temperatures, bright indirect light, ample water and acidic soil. When the blooms turn green, it means there's not enough acid in the soil and the leaves curling up and browning means, it is not watered enough or the soil is not rich and prorous. To rescue the plant, it should be taken indoors until the heat of summer dies down., otherwise, keep the hydrangea in semishade, apply aluminum sulfate ( to make the soil acidic, if you really prefer blue blooms) and water it daily until soaking wet.
Reply:?
Reply:you didn't say what region you live in, but generally, hydrangeas need some sunlight. Also, good soil irrigation is needed during the summer months. Since it is potted, it should have some loose soil (just add some substance to keep it loose, including peralite) to insure good drainage and steady watering habits. These plants prefer slightly moist soil. I'm not familiar with all species, but there is a new hybrid that is tinged with green color. But, allowing for good watering, drainage and ample sunlight, the soil may need a fertilizer boost. Lack of nitrogen cause slow growth and yellowing leaves. Potassium is needed for good photosynthesis. A shortage is indicated by mottled yellow or pale green mature leaves with scorched edges and less than usual flower yield. A boost of miracle grow with a bit or morning sun may do the trick!
I want to change a blue hydrangea to pink. Can it be done? And How? Thanks?
It can be done, the color of the flower is a matter of soil acidity. If you want it to be more blue, give it aluminum sulfate. If you want it to be pink, sweeten the soil with a side-dressing of lime in the spring, but it is much harder to go to pink from blue than the other way around. There are some really pretty pink hydrangeas on the market, perhaps it would be easier to just plant one of them. Here's a web site with more info:
http://www.hydrangeashydrangeas.com/colo...
http://www.hydrangeashydrangeas.com/colo...
When (on the East Coast) are hydrangea supposed to bloom? I planted one last year---the leaves are beautiful,
but no flowers.
When (on the East Coast) are hydrangea supposed to bloom? I planted one last year---the leaves are beautiful,
Very soon. I just planted a hydrangea and it is already in bloom. My neighbor has a really big and really old hydrangea hedge. It has not bloomed yet but it will soon. Be patient and enjoy :)
Reply:Depends on the type of Hydrangea you planted.
Smooth Hydrangea - an Annabelle type Hydrangea is setting out blooms now. They're green now and will turn white soon. Typical bloom period June - September.
Bigleaf Hydrangea - Nikko Blue type Hydrangea. Bloom period is July - August, though this plant will bloom sooner in warmer climates.
Panicle Hydrangea - Tardiva, Unique type Hydrangea. Bloom period is mid-July through September, though flowers lose color and persist into winter.
Oak Leaf Hydrangea - Bloom period is late June through July. Flower colors fade but persist on plant. Blooms earlier in warmer climates.
Reply:Mine are alreday in bloom I live in zone 6.
pulling teeth
When (on the East Coast) are hydrangea supposed to bloom? I planted one last year---the leaves are beautiful,
Very soon. I just planted a hydrangea and it is already in bloom. My neighbor has a really big and really old hydrangea hedge. It has not bloomed yet but it will soon. Be patient and enjoy :)
Reply:Depends on the type of Hydrangea you planted.
Smooth Hydrangea - an Annabelle type Hydrangea is setting out blooms now. They're green now and will turn white soon. Typical bloom period June - September.
Bigleaf Hydrangea - Nikko Blue type Hydrangea. Bloom period is July - August, though this plant will bloom sooner in warmer climates.
Panicle Hydrangea - Tardiva, Unique type Hydrangea. Bloom period is mid-July through September, though flowers lose color and persist into winter.
Oak Leaf Hydrangea - Bloom period is late June through July. Flower colors fade but persist on plant. Blooms earlier in warmer climates.
Reply:Mine are alreday in bloom I live in zone 6.
pulling teeth
I have a new hydrangea plant which has bloomed. Should I "dead head" it at this time?
It's always O.K. to deadhead. In the late summer and fall though, you want to leave as much foliage on the plant as possible. Plants store winter hardiness by processes going on in the leaves now, so just remove the spent flowers.
I have a new hydrangea plant which has bloomed. Should I "dead head" it at this time?
yes definitely
Reply:Carefully pinch off the old blooms so the plant has more energy.
Reply:hydrangeas are one of the best flowers for drying.they can be used in a dried flower arrangment.as mentioned earlier,they flower on old wood,meanig todays flower are on last years growth.when pruning only cut to the next bud.you can change the color of the flower by changing the alkelinity and the acidic levels in the soil.the more acidic the bluer the flower,the less acidic the more purple.of course a pee gee hydrangea is white.dead heading is more for annuals.though deadheading perenials will bring on extra blooms.there is also a hydrangea vine that flowers are similiar to lace hydrangea.it is a great screening vine because it stays full,with leaves and growth,right down to the ground.good luck and may your thumb stay green.
Reply:It's your choice, because it won't effect the health of the plant at all. If the dried blooms are unattractive, you can cut just the old flower head off. Don't cut any more than that or you will risk next year's flowers because almost all hydrangeas bloom on the previous year's growth. That means that the dormant little flower buds are in hiding just below where this year's blooms were. There is a new hydrangea called Endless Summer that blooms on old and new wood, but that's pretty unique in the hydrangea world.
For annual flowers, deadheading prolongs bloom because it prevents the plant from setting seed. But hydrangeas will not rebloom (except for Endless Summer) so that's not a consideration. (And, by the way, hydrangeas are woody shrubs, not bulbs; an earlier answer was a bit confused.) In colder climates, people often leave the old flowers on hydrangeas, because the cold zaps the tips of the plants, so the old flowers protect the next year's buds.
So unless you live in an area with harsh winters, do what looks best to you - just don't take too much off.
Reply:Yes, therefore it can put its energy into the bulb and making baby bulbs.
I have a new hydrangea plant which has bloomed. Should I "dead head" it at this time?
yes definitely
Reply:Carefully pinch off the old blooms so the plant has more energy.
Reply:hydrangeas are one of the best flowers for drying.they can be used in a dried flower arrangment.as mentioned earlier,they flower on old wood,meanig todays flower are on last years growth.when pruning only cut to the next bud.you can change the color of the flower by changing the alkelinity and the acidic levels in the soil.the more acidic the bluer the flower,the less acidic the more purple.of course a pee gee hydrangea is white.dead heading is more for annuals.though deadheading perenials will bring on extra blooms.there is also a hydrangea vine that flowers are similiar to lace hydrangea.it is a great screening vine because it stays full,with leaves and growth,right down to the ground.good luck and may your thumb stay green.
Reply:It's your choice, because it won't effect the health of the plant at all. If the dried blooms are unattractive, you can cut just the old flower head off. Don't cut any more than that or you will risk next year's flowers because almost all hydrangeas bloom on the previous year's growth. That means that the dormant little flower buds are in hiding just below where this year's blooms were. There is a new hydrangea called Endless Summer that blooms on old and new wood, but that's pretty unique in the hydrangea world.
For annual flowers, deadheading prolongs bloom because it prevents the plant from setting seed. But hydrangeas will not rebloom (except for Endless Summer) so that's not a consideration. (And, by the way, hydrangeas are woody shrubs, not bulbs; an earlier answer was a bit confused.) In colder climates, people often leave the old flowers on hydrangeas, because the cold zaps the tips of the plants, so the old flowers protect the next year's buds.
So unless you live in an area with harsh winters, do what looks best to you - just don't take too much off.
Reply:Yes, therefore it can put its energy into the bulb and making baby bulbs.
Why is it when I put cut hydrangea blooms in water they wilt and appear to die?
after a few hours??
Why is it when I put cut hydrangea blooms in water they wilt and appear to die?
This is caused by a sticky substance that clogs the stems, preventing moisture from reaching the blooms. This does not happen every time. Cut-hydrangeas often last for days and other times they wilt almost immediately after being added to an arrangement.
There are two techniques that should solve this problem. I've tested both, and have had excellent results. The two methods are:
(A) The Hot Water method
1. When cutting hydrangeas, take water to the garden in a container.
2. Immediately after cutting each bloom, drop the stem in the water.
3. Indoors, boil water and pour it into a cup or any container.
4. Cut the hydrangea stems to the desired length.
5. Stand the stems of the hydrangeas in the hot water for 30 seconds.
6. Immediately put into room temperature water and then arrange
(B) The Alum Dip method
1. The alum used in this method can usually be found in the spice section of the grocery store. Occasionally it is found with the pickling supplies.
2. Plan to cut hydrangea blooms in the morning while the weather is cool.
3. Take a pitcher of water to the garden and drop bloom stems into water immediately after cutting them (important).
4. As you arrangement the blooms, recut the stems and dip the bottom 1/2 inch of stem into powdered alum.
5. Arrange as usual in water. (I know this washes off the alum, but it works!)
Hope this helps! Good Luck!
Reply:Try this site for help with your problem.
http://www.gardenplansireland.com/forum/...
Reply:they need to be in sun and dont cut them all flowers die if cut
Why is it when I put cut hydrangea blooms in water they wilt and appear to die?
This is caused by a sticky substance that clogs the stems, preventing moisture from reaching the blooms. This does not happen every time. Cut-hydrangeas often last for days and other times they wilt almost immediately after being added to an arrangement.
There are two techniques that should solve this problem. I've tested both, and have had excellent results. The two methods are:
(A) The Hot Water method
1. When cutting hydrangeas, take water to the garden in a container.
2. Immediately after cutting each bloom, drop the stem in the water.
3. Indoors, boil water and pour it into a cup or any container.
4. Cut the hydrangea stems to the desired length.
5. Stand the stems of the hydrangeas in the hot water for 30 seconds.
6. Immediately put into room temperature water and then arrange
(B) The Alum Dip method
1. The alum used in this method can usually be found in the spice section of the grocery store. Occasionally it is found with the pickling supplies.
2. Plan to cut hydrangea blooms in the morning while the weather is cool.
3. Take a pitcher of water to the garden and drop bloom stems into water immediately after cutting them (important).
4. As you arrangement the blooms, recut the stems and dip the bottom 1/2 inch of stem into powdered alum.
5. Arrange as usual in water. (I know this washes off the alum, but it works!)
Hope this helps! Good Luck!
Reply:Try this site for help with your problem.
http://www.gardenplansireland.com/forum/...
Reply:they need to be in sun and dont cut them all flowers die if cut
I bought a nikko blue hydrangea today. Can I still plant it in my yard? I am in Chicago.?
Absolutly! The best place for that plant during the winter is in the ground. But a few words of warning about Nikko Blues in Chicago. That hydrangea is not stem hardy in our winters. It only blooms on second year wood. So you will have nice foliage next spring as new stems grow from the crown, but it is unlikely that you will ever see it bloom again. Unless global warming puts Chicago into a warmer cold hardiness zone.
Additional Details: Nikko blue Hydrangea is deciduous. They lose their leaves in fall. There will be no need to place burlap around a shrub with no leaves. Desiccation is the loss of moisture from a leaf in winter. It occurs because the lost moisture in the leaf can not be replaced when the water in the soil is frozen. Desiccation is a concern for broadleaf evergreens like Rhododendron and Azaleas, not a deciduous shrub like a Nikko blue hydrangea. Mulch is always beneficial to retard moisture loss from your soils. It can also help to moderate soil temperatures in summer. Soil is a good insulator and mulch will do little to moderate a soil's temperature in winter. It can help reduce the freeze thaw cycle in the top few inches and prevent the heaving of shallow planted bulbs, corm, tubers, etc. Since the Hydrangea has none of these, mulch will do little to protect hydrangea roots properly planted. Winter survival will be dependant upon the survival of your shrub's crown, not the roots. Mulch because this is the best thing to do to control weed seed germination and moderate soil moisture levels. Keep the mulch back off the stems of the shrubs to prevent crown rot and insects.
I bought a nikko blue hydrangea today. Can I still plant it in my yard? I am in Chicago.?
hello
look here
http://www.thegardenhelper.com/Hydrangea...
I hope it helps
Reply:Wow, you cannot keep it in the house! So put it in the yard (the ground is not frozen yet) and put some burlap around it on tall stakes to protect it from wind dessication - you need to be sure it has plenty of water when the days are not freezing and mulch the base - keep it back 1 or 2 inches from the plant stems, but you need to mulch the top of the root ball to protect it since the roots will not have enough time to get deep before the freeze hits.
Additional Details: Nikko blue Hydrangea is deciduous. They lose their leaves in fall. There will be no need to place burlap around a shrub with no leaves. Desiccation is the loss of moisture from a leaf in winter. It occurs because the lost moisture in the leaf can not be replaced when the water in the soil is frozen. Desiccation is a concern for broadleaf evergreens like Rhododendron and Azaleas, not a deciduous shrub like a Nikko blue hydrangea. Mulch is always beneficial to retard moisture loss from your soils. It can also help to moderate soil temperatures in summer. Soil is a good insulator and mulch will do little to moderate a soil's temperature in winter. It can help reduce the freeze thaw cycle in the top few inches and prevent the heaving of shallow planted bulbs, corm, tubers, etc. Since the Hydrangea has none of these, mulch will do little to protect hydrangea roots properly planted. Winter survival will be dependant upon the survival of your shrub's crown, not the roots. Mulch because this is the best thing to do to control weed seed germination and moderate soil moisture levels. Keep the mulch back off the stems of the shrubs to prevent crown rot and insects.
I bought a nikko blue hydrangea today. Can I still plant it in my yard? I am in Chicago.?
hello
look here
http://www.thegardenhelper.com/Hydrangea...
I hope it helps
Reply:Wow, you cannot keep it in the house! So put it in the yard (the ground is not frozen yet) and put some burlap around it on tall stakes to protect it from wind dessication - you need to be sure it has plenty of water when the days are not freezing and mulch the base - keep it back 1 or 2 inches from the plant stems, but you need to mulch the top of the root ball to protect it since the roots will not have enough time to get deep before the freeze hits.
I'm a novice gardner and am not sure what to do with my hydrangea----cut back or not?
This was planted last year and did well throughout the season;
I just left it over the winter. Should I cut it back now or just wait and hope it will leaf out again? Looks kinda scraggly now.
I'm a novice gardner and am not sure what to do with my hydrangea----cut back or not?
Barbara,
It will depend on exactly what kind of hydrangea you have planted. (Keep in mind there are many types of this plant and each one has a unique way of growing) SOME hydrangeas bloom on "old wood"...meaning the wood that is left over from last year. SOME hydrangeas bloom on "new wood"...meaning anything that grows this year. Also, SOME hydrangeas bloom on both OLD and NEW wood!
Your best bet? Wait it out until the plant really starts taking off, and you will be able to see where exactly the new blooms are coming in. If it's not on the old, scraggly looking part of your plant, then by all means cut those branches down.
I am not a novice gardener, but I have purchased some hydrangeas from Home Depot and want to wait and see as to what they will do - so I know how you feel about them looking a little worn.
Hope that helps you out!
Reply:I meant to add that all responses were helpful and I do appreciate everybody's good advice and comments. Wish it were possible sometimes to select more than one "best answer". Good luck to all. Report It
Reply:DO NOT cut it back.Wait until all the leaves have started to form on the branches. Then cut out all DEAD branches to the ground. If any of the branches are half dead and the other half of it has leaves then just trim off the dead parts.
Reply:Koi is right. Don't cut your hydrangea until it gets leaves and then cut out the dead wood only. Hydrangeas will bloom on previous years growth so you will cut off the part that would have produced the flowers. I know that the wood looks dry and dead but that's what hydrangea wood looks like after winter. I have thought a few times that mine were dead but to my surprise, new growth sprouts from that "dead" wood. Give them a chance to do their thing. :)
Reply:Cut it down to about 6 inches above the ground. You should do that every year. It looks scraggly now because he/she needs a hair cut to make it fill out.
Reply:No do not cut it back. It will leaf out and new blooms will form.
I found this out the hard way.
Shortly after we were married I decided to help out my wife while I was on days off and she was at work.
I cut back the hydrangea --- well she was not happy, but she is sweet and forgave me.
It did not bloom that year but it came back and is doing well now.
If there some really scraggly shoots trim them off just to make a better shape.
Fitness Shoes
I just left it over the winter. Should I cut it back now or just wait and hope it will leaf out again? Looks kinda scraggly now.
I'm a novice gardner and am not sure what to do with my hydrangea----cut back or not?
Barbara,
It will depend on exactly what kind of hydrangea you have planted. (Keep in mind there are many types of this plant and each one has a unique way of growing) SOME hydrangeas bloom on "old wood"...meaning the wood that is left over from last year. SOME hydrangeas bloom on "new wood"...meaning anything that grows this year. Also, SOME hydrangeas bloom on both OLD and NEW wood!
Your best bet? Wait it out until the plant really starts taking off, and you will be able to see where exactly the new blooms are coming in. If it's not on the old, scraggly looking part of your plant, then by all means cut those branches down.
I am not a novice gardener, but I have purchased some hydrangeas from Home Depot and want to wait and see as to what they will do - so I know how you feel about them looking a little worn.
Hope that helps you out!
Reply:I meant to add that all responses were helpful and I do appreciate everybody's good advice and comments. Wish it were possible sometimes to select more than one "best answer". Good luck to all. Report It
Reply:DO NOT cut it back.Wait until all the leaves have started to form on the branches. Then cut out all DEAD branches to the ground. If any of the branches are half dead and the other half of it has leaves then just trim off the dead parts.
Reply:Koi is right. Don't cut your hydrangea until it gets leaves and then cut out the dead wood only. Hydrangeas will bloom on previous years growth so you will cut off the part that would have produced the flowers. I know that the wood looks dry and dead but that's what hydrangea wood looks like after winter. I have thought a few times that mine were dead but to my surprise, new growth sprouts from that "dead" wood. Give them a chance to do their thing. :)
Reply:Cut it down to about 6 inches above the ground. You should do that every year. It looks scraggly now because he/she needs a hair cut to make it fill out.
Reply:No do not cut it back. It will leaf out and new blooms will form.
I found this out the hard way.
Shortly after we were married I decided to help out my wife while I was on days off and she was at work.
I cut back the hydrangea --- well she was not happy, but she is sweet and forgave me.
It did not bloom that year but it came back and is doing well now.
If there some really scraggly shoots trim them off just to make a better shape.
Fitness Shoes
What are these brown spots on hydrangea bush stems? HELP!?
I just noticed a lot of brown spots on the branches of my bush. they look similiar to the spots bananas get on them. little brown dots all over. what are they and how do i get rid of them? thanks
What are these brown spots on hydrangea bush stems? HELP!?
This is "normal" on some varieties. Nothing to worry about. You "don't" have any disease or anything. These brown spots appear on the new, green wood. This is what makes the plant attractive to some gardeners.
...Billy Ray
Reply:Don't worry, I have the same thing on my drangeas also, and I'm not worried a bit. And thanks for choosing a best answer. Report It
Reply:I had several suffer from this. One just kept getting worse and died. I think is was root rot or wilt. In any case, spraying with insect and diesease control returned the rest of the plants to health.
You may be able to spray with just a fungicide.
-Doug
What are these brown spots on hydrangea bush stems? HELP!?
This is "normal" on some varieties. Nothing to worry about. You "don't" have any disease or anything. These brown spots appear on the new, green wood. This is what makes the plant attractive to some gardeners.
...Billy Ray
Reply:Don't worry, I have the same thing on my drangeas also, and I'm not worried a bit. And thanks for choosing a best answer. Report It
Reply:I had several suffer from this. One just kept getting worse and died. I think is was root rot or wilt. In any case, spraying with insect and diesease control returned the rest of the plants to health.
You may be able to spray with just a fungicide.
-Doug
I have a big leaf hydrangea can I cut a flower off and plant it and grow another plant?
If you will take a long outside branch, scrape the bottom side of it, bend it down against the soil, and put a brick on top of it - it will root in a short time.
If the flower is mature it will have seed. They might take root and grow, but the flower itself won't.
Hope this helps.
I have a big leaf hydrangea can I cut a flower off and plant it and grow another plant?
no . but you can take a cutting from a branch .
rule of the thumb is take a cutting around pencil height and width -- cut a forty five degree angle on your cutting --- chop most all the leaves off maybe leaving a half at the top ( this conserves the energy of the cutting that you want to ' strike' ) obviously you get a pot and potting mix --- put your cutting in --- water in well and don't worry if the top half leaf dies (n because it will anyway ) --- don't over water ( like don't drown it every day ) once a week will be good enough --- and depending where you live --- don't be disturbed if it is dormant --- it will strike with the advice I've given you .
good luck .
If the flower is mature it will have seed. They might take root and grow, but the flower itself won't.
Hope this helps.
I have a big leaf hydrangea can I cut a flower off and plant it and grow another plant?
no . but you can take a cutting from a branch .
rule of the thumb is take a cutting around pencil height and width -- cut a forty five degree angle on your cutting --- chop most all the leaves off maybe leaving a half at the top ( this conserves the energy of the cutting that you want to ' strike' ) obviously you get a pot and potting mix --- put your cutting in --- water in well and don't worry if the top half leaf dies (n because it will anyway ) --- don't over water ( like don't drown it every day ) once a week will be good enough --- and depending where you live --- don't be disturbed if it is dormant --- it will strike with the advice I've given you .
good luck .
Hydrangea blooms changed colors?
I bought some lilac purple hydrangeas. Soon after buying them I repotted them and all the blooms turned a pale green, what can I do to turn them back to the purple, or really any other color besides the green. Not sure if it matters but I replanted them in Miracle grow potting soil, and I live in Japan. Thanks
Hydrangea blooms changed colors?
Hydrangeas blooms change color due to change in the soil ph
Reply:Bury a soda can, foil, or something metal (aluminum) near the flowers. Their PH has changed. This happens often with hydrangeas. The PH in your soil determines their color so if you "plant" something metal close to the plant, it should change colors (back to violet) for you.
Reply:All hydrangea are the same plant. It is the soil that determines the color of the blooms. I, unfortunately, stop being of help there. I don't know what soil conditions determine which color. I do know that I had pinkish / purplish blooms when I lived in VA, and our soil was very basic - high acid?
Reply:Hydrangea bloom color depends on soil pH. It is much easier to change a hydrangea from pink to blue than it is from blue to pink. Changing a hydrangea from pink to blue entails adding aluminum to the soil. Changing from blue to pink means subtracting aluminum from the soil or taking it out of reach of the hydrangea.
You should be able to find the aluminum in nurseries or plant supply shops. Not sure about the availability in Japan though.
Reply:The change in color indicates a change in the ph of the growing medium - in this case, Miracle grow potting soil. If you want deep blue hydrangea you can bang several iron nails into the soil. You have to use iron, though. Stainless steel won't work.
Reply:LIMITATIONS TO
HYDRANGEA COLOR CHANGE:
White hydrangeas can NOT be changed to pink or blue by the grower. (The Almighty sometimes adds pink and red to blooms as they age).
If you live in a hot climate, it is unlikely you will ever see a "true red" hydrangea. No matter how convincing those pictures in the catalogs are or how much lime is added to the soil, one can only achieve a very deep or dark pink, but not a true red (at least here in the South. I'd love to hear from you if you have a different experience).
One can rarely change the intensity of a color (how strong or pale the color is). The intensity develops for a number of reasons: the heredity of a particular hydrangea variety, weather conditions (hot or cold, humid or dry), health of the plant, and possibly other natural factors. Fertilizing hydrangeas once or twice a year may result in a little more saturated color simply because the health of the plant may be improved.
A few varieties of hydrangeas tend more toward the pink or the blue range of colors, but will not retain even this color if soil conditions are not right.
Reply:To change its color fast, buy ironite from any local nursery. Work it into the soil around the plant. Also you can put a few rusty nails around the surface of the soil.
Hydrangea blooms changed colors?
Hydrangeas blooms change color due to change in the soil ph
Reply:Bury a soda can, foil, or something metal (aluminum) near the flowers. Their PH has changed. This happens often with hydrangeas. The PH in your soil determines their color so if you "plant" something metal close to the plant, it should change colors (back to violet) for you.
Reply:All hydrangea are the same plant. It is the soil that determines the color of the blooms. I, unfortunately, stop being of help there. I don't know what soil conditions determine which color. I do know that I had pinkish / purplish blooms when I lived in VA, and our soil was very basic - high acid?
Reply:Hydrangea bloom color depends on soil pH. It is much easier to change a hydrangea from pink to blue than it is from blue to pink. Changing a hydrangea from pink to blue entails adding aluminum to the soil. Changing from blue to pink means subtracting aluminum from the soil or taking it out of reach of the hydrangea.
You should be able to find the aluminum in nurseries or plant supply shops. Not sure about the availability in Japan though.
Reply:The change in color indicates a change in the ph of the growing medium - in this case, Miracle grow potting soil. If you want deep blue hydrangea you can bang several iron nails into the soil. You have to use iron, though. Stainless steel won't work.
Reply:LIMITATIONS TO
HYDRANGEA COLOR CHANGE:
White hydrangeas can NOT be changed to pink or blue by the grower. (The Almighty sometimes adds pink and red to blooms as they age).
If you live in a hot climate, it is unlikely you will ever see a "true red" hydrangea. No matter how convincing those pictures in the catalogs are or how much lime is added to the soil, one can only achieve a very deep or dark pink, but not a true red (at least here in the South. I'd love to hear from you if you have a different experience).
One can rarely change the intensity of a color (how strong or pale the color is). The intensity develops for a number of reasons: the heredity of a particular hydrangea variety, weather conditions (hot or cold, humid or dry), health of the plant, and possibly other natural factors. Fertilizing hydrangeas once or twice a year may result in a little more saturated color simply because the health of the plant may be improved.
A few varieties of hydrangeas tend more toward the pink or the blue range of colors, but will not retain even this color if soil conditions are not right.
Reply:To change its color fast, buy ironite from any local nursery. Work it into the soil around the plant. Also you can put a few rusty nails around the surface of the soil.
Why can't i get my Hydrangea's to bloom???
I live in Orange County CA, and they get 1/2 day of sun. The leaves grow, and it starts to bloom, but then they just die.
Why can't i get my Hydrangea's to bloom???
Didn't you say that you have blooms but that they die? If that is true, then focusing on what prevents hydrangeas from blooming will not solve your problem as suggested by the previous 2 posts. We must instead look to probable causes of bloom blight or damage. Here are some reasonable possibilities:
BACTERIA BLIGHT
Bacterial wilt can blight (they just die) flower clusters. Leaves may be affected as well. This disease is worse after heavy rains and hot weather. If severe, wilting and root rot can occur, followed by plant death. The causal organism is Pseudomonas solanacearum, and no chemical control is available.
BOTRYIS
Botrytis (grey mold) also affects blooms, but this disease generally produces a grey mold, thus its common name. In fact, Botrytis on hydrangea is usually limited to the flower buds and especially the petals. The small water-soaked spots seen on the petals quickly expand into reddish brown irregular blotches. Brightly colored petals quickly fade to a brown, withered mass that can be covered with a fuzzy
grey growth. Botrytis blight could be the source of your frustration.
Fungicides will protect hydrangea from Botrytis blight only if used in combination with good management practices. Start treatments when the plant is beginning to bloom and continue until finished. Fungicides: Chipco GT, Dithane, Fore, Protect, or Halt.
Remove infected plant material %26amp; dispose. Remove plant litter. Do not overhead water. Clean pruning tools with 10% bleach or 75% alcohol solution between cuts.
THRIPS
Another possibility is the western flower thrip. These sap sucking insects can be in your hydrangea buds, damaging the blooms before they deploy. Thrips are difficult to control because they are in the flower buds.
Colorado State University Extension Service:
-Dislodge them by applying a strong stream of water to the affected plant. Larvae are wingless and will not find their way back to your plant. This is one time you will want to use overhead watering as it kills many of the thrips.
-Placing aluminum foil mulches under the plants has been found in some instances to disorient the thrips.
-Remove and discard affected blossoms and plant parts.
-Thrips prefer tender new growth. Avoid excess pruning which may stimulate new growth or applying high nitrogen fertilizers.
-Avoid planting near dry, weed or grassy areas. Thrips migrate from these areas into the garden.
-The location of the insects makes it difficult to reach them with insecticides. Products that have been somewhat successful are: horticultural oils, insecticidal soaps, Neem, pyrethroids, acephate (non-food crops only), Nicotine, Orthene and Trumpet.
Two biological controls have shown promise in Colorado. They are Beauvaria bassiana (Naruralis O, Botanigard) and Spinosad.
The MSU Dept. of Horticulture also has identified Spinosad as a low toxic %26amp; effective biological control of thrips. The product name is Conserve SC. "Conserve SC has a "moderate" spectrum of activity. It is most effective on chewing insects including beetles (particularly Chrysomelidae), caterpillars and sawfly larvae. Leafmining flies, fungus gnat and shore fly larvae are also potential target pests. It appears to have good activity on thrips and sporadic activity against mite species.
Hydrangeas are tolerant of a very wide pH range (4.5 - 8.0). Aluminum dissolves and is available as a micronutrient between a pH of 5.2 to 5.8. Aluminum has been identified as the micronutrient repsonsible for turning blooms blue on a Mop Head hydrangea. Aluminum is not responsible for the retention of hydrangea blooms. At a pH level of 5.0, availability of the macro-nutrients Nitrogen, Phosphorus, Potassium, Sulfur, Calcium, %26amp; Magnesium are significantly restricted and become a bigger issue for the plant's health than the availability of aluminum.
Reply:Your soil may have the wrong pH for the flower to take up enough aluminum to keep the bloom going. The pH should be about 5.0
Reply:Hi ~
Don't prune unless necessary. Pruning often removes the flower buds. If you need to prune, remove any dead stems in the spring. Any other necessary pruning should take place immediately after bloom. The new flower buds form in autumn, when night temperatures consistently drop below 60 degrees.
Cover the plants to a depth of at least 12-18 inches with mulch, bark, oak leaves, pine needles, or straw. Cover the entire plant, tips included, if possible. Remember not to use maple leaves because they will mat when wet and can suffocate the plant. Some people make cages out of snow fence or chicken wire to hold the mulch. One creative gentleman, who every year has a spectacular Hydrangea garden, uses 20 gallon plastic trash cans. He cuts off the bottoms, places them over his plants in early winter, fills them with mulch and then puts the lid on them until spring.
Remove the mulch only after any major threat of frost (50% frost-free date) has passed. Do not be concerned if there are small white leaves and stems they will survive and turn green again quickly.
Reply:Most plants that don't bloom can trace their problems to several sources: not enough light, deer damage, pruning at the wrong time, bud drop from extreme changes in temperature, or lack of proper nutrients. If your hydrangea bloomed regularly but stops blooming, look for changes in the growing conditions — denser shade, less wind protection, or perhaps unusually harsh weather.
Some varieties don't bloom year after year. The Mophead (rounded) varieties are notorious for not blooming year after year.
There may be a general lack of Phosphorous in the soil, %26amp; too much Nitrogen may have caused a lot of leafy growth at the expense of blooms.
Or...sometimes hydrangea will leaf out early in the spring during a warm spell and then get caught in a late spring freeze. If the new growth came only from the ground, then types of hydrange that blooms only on old wood will not bloom this year.
The smooth hydrangea (Hydrangea arborescens), bloom on new wood so if you prune in late winter or early spring, you won't accidentally cut off this year's flowers. Others, like some mopheads and many big-leaf hydrangeas (H. macrophylla) bloom on old wood, so any late-season (or fall or winter) pruning you do erases next year's flowers.
You can prune a third of the stems of mophead hydrangeas (H. macrophylla) to the ground after blooming and cut off flower heads when they become tattered. But do not prune the flowerless straight shoots without side branches because these are the ones that will branch out and flower next year.
They are heavy feeders. To encourage flowering, use a fertilizer low in Nitrogen and with a Phosphorus content over 30. (An N-P-K ratio of 10-40-10 is ideal) %26amp; fertilize them regularly. Organic soil enriched with compost is best. If using store-bought fertilizers %26amp; you don't want to fuss with a scheduled feeding of fertilizer, you can also use a slow-release fertilizer like osmacote or use manure around your plants. Water on a regular basis.
Usually too much shade will also retard the development of flowers, %26amp; full sun can scorch the leaves so part sun to shade is best, but you seem to have enough sun. Morning sun and afternoon shade is ideal. Are your Hydrangeas planted planted in an area away from drying winter winds?
Here's a site on How to prune Hydrangea:
http://www.hydrangeashydrangeas.com/prun...
Good luck! Hope this helped.
adult teeth
Why can't i get my Hydrangea's to bloom???
Didn't you say that you have blooms but that they die? If that is true, then focusing on what prevents hydrangeas from blooming will not solve your problem as suggested by the previous 2 posts. We must instead look to probable causes of bloom blight or damage. Here are some reasonable possibilities:
BACTERIA BLIGHT
Bacterial wilt can blight (they just die) flower clusters. Leaves may be affected as well. This disease is worse after heavy rains and hot weather. If severe, wilting and root rot can occur, followed by plant death. The causal organism is Pseudomonas solanacearum, and no chemical control is available.
BOTRYIS
Botrytis (grey mold) also affects blooms, but this disease generally produces a grey mold, thus its common name. In fact, Botrytis on hydrangea is usually limited to the flower buds and especially the petals. The small water-soaked spots seen on the petals quickly expand into reddish brown irregular blotches. Brightly colored petals quickly fade to a brown, withered mass that can be covered with a fuzzy
grey growth. Botrytis blight could be the source of your frustration.
Fungicides will protect hydrangea from Botrytis blight only if used in combination with good management practices. Start treatments when the plant is beginning to bloom and continue until finished. Fungicides: Chipco GT, Dithane, Fore, Protect, or Halt.
Remove infected plant material %26amp; dispose. Remove plant litter. Do not overhead water. Clean pruning tools with 10% bleach or 75% alcohol solution between cuts.
THRIPS
Another possibility is the western flower thrip. These sap sucking insects can be in your hydrangea buds, damaging the blooms before they deploy. Thrips are difficult to control because they are in the flower buds.
Colorado State University Extension Service:
-Dislodge them by applying a strong stream of water to the affected plant. Larvae are wingless and will not find their way back to your plant. This is one time you will want to use overhead watering as it kills many of the thrips.
-Placing aluminum foil mulches under the plants has been found in some instances to disorient the thrips.
-Remove and discard affected blossoms and plant parts.
-Thrips prefer tender new growth. Avoid excess pruning which may stimulate new growth or applying high nitrogen fertilizers.
-Avoid planting near dry, weed or grassy areas. Thrips migrate from these areas into the garden.
-The location of the insects makes it difficult to reach them with insecticides. Products that have been somewhat successful are: horticultural oils, insecticidal soaps, Neem, pyrethroids, acephate (non-food crops only), Nicotine, Orthene and Trumpet.
Two biological controls have shown promise in Colorado. They are Beauvaria bassiana (Naruralis O, Botanigard) and Spinosad.
The MSU Dept. of Horticulture also has identified Spinosad as a low toxic %26amp; effective biological control of thrips. The product name is Conserve SC. "Conserve SC has a "moderate" spectrum of activity. It is most effective on chewing insects including beetles (particularly Chrysomelidae), caterpillars and sawfly larvae. Leafmining flies, fungus gnat and shore fly larvae are also potential target pests. It appears to have good activity on thrips and sporadic activity against mite species.
Hydrangeas are tolerant of a very wide pH range (4.5 - 8.0). Aluminum dissolves and is available as a micronutrient between a pH of 5.2 to 5.8. Aluminum has been identified as the micronutrient repsonsible for turning blooms blue on a Mop Head hydrangea. Aluminum is not responsible for the retention of hydrangea blooms. At a pH level of 5.0, availability of the macro-nutrients Nitrogen, Phosphorus, Potassium, Sulfur, Calcium, %26amp; Magnesium are significantly restricted and become a bigger issue for the plant's health than the availability of aluminum.
Reply:Your soil may have the wrong pH for the flower to take up enough aluminum to keep the bloom going. The pH should be about 5.0
Reply:Hi ~
Don't prune unless necessary. Pruning often removes the flower buds. If you need to prune, remove any dead stems in the spring. Any other necessary pruning should take place immediately after bloom. The new flower buds form in autumn, when night temperatures consistently drop below 60 degrees.
Cover the plants to a depth of at least 12-18 inches with mulch, bark, oak leaves, pine needles, or straw. Cover the entire plant, tips included, if possible. Remember not to use maple leaves because they will mat when wet and can suffocate the plant. Some people make cages out of snow fence or chicken wire to hold the mulch. One creative gentleman, who every year has a spectacular Hydrangea garden, uses 20 gallon plastic trash cans. He cuts off the bottoms, places them over his plants in early winter, fills them with mulch and then puts the lid on them until spring.
Remove the mulch only after any major threat of frost (50% frost-free date) has passed. Do not be concerned if there are small white leaves and stems they will survive and turn green again quickly.
Reply:Most plants that don't bloom can trace their problems to several sources: not enough light, deer damage, pruning at the wrong time, bud drop from extreme changes in temperature, or lack of proper nutrients. If your hydrangea bloomed regularly but stops blooming, look for changes in the growing conditions — denser shade, less wind protection, or perhaps unusually harsh weather.
Some varieties don't bloom year after year. The Mophead (rounded) varieties are notorious for not blooming year after year.
There may be a general lack of Phosphorous in the soil, %26amp; too much Nitrogen may have caused a lot of leafy growth at the expense of blooms.
Or...sometimes hydrangea will leaf out early in the spring during a warm spell and then get caught in a late spring freeze. If the new growth came only from the ground, then types of hydrange that blooms only on old wood will not bloom this year.
The smooth hydrangea (Hydrangea arborescens), bloom on new wood so if you prune in late winter or early spring, you won't accidentally cut off this year's flowers. Others, like some mopheads and many big-leaf hydrangeas (H. macrophylla) bloom on old wood, so any late-season (or fall or winter) pruning you do erases next year's flowers.
You can prune a third of the stems of mophead hydrangeas (H. macrophylla) to the ground after blooming and cut off flower heads when they become tattered. But do not prune the flowerless straight shoots without side branches because these are the ones that will branch out and flower next year.
They are heavy feeders. To encourage flowering, use a fertilizer low in Nitrogen and with a Phosphorus content over 30. (An N-P-K ratio of 10-40-10 is ideal) %26amp; fertilize them regularly. Organic soil enriched with compost is best. If using store-bought fertilizers %26amp; you don't want to fuss with a scheduled feeding of fertilizer, you can also use a slow-release fertilizer like osmacote or use manure around your plants. Water on a regular basis.
Usually too much shade will also retard the development of flowers, %26amp; full sun can scorch the leaves so part sun to shade is best, but you seem to have enough sun. Morning sun and afternoon shade is ideal. Are your Hydrangeas planted planted in an area away from drying winter winds?
Here's a site on How to prune Hydrangea:
http://www.hydrangeashydrangeas.com/prun...
Good luck! Hope this helped.
adult teeth
I'm looking for someone who can tell me how to take care of Hydrangea?
I live in Zone 9. I have most of my hydrangeas under high branching trees, so they get filtered light but not direct sun during the hottest part of the day, since the leaves will burn.
Hydrangeas are interesting in that the pH level of the soil will influence the color of the flowers. If you want them to be blue, use an acid fertilizer and if you prefer pink, a standard formula of fertilizer is fine. (The packages of fertilizer are labelled, or ask someone in your yard and garden store to show you.)
Except for the newer hydrangea Endless Summer, most hydrangeas bloom out of wood that they grew last year, so you won't get repeat blooming. (Endless Summer is different because it will bloom on old and new wood, so it has a longer bloom season.) So after the blooming is over, you can either leave the dried flowers on the plant, or remove just the flower head. Don't cut the plant back any further, or you will cut off next year's flower buds. (You probably won't be able to see where they are yet, but trust me - they're already there!)
Keep the soil moist but not soggy. An inch or 2 of compost or other mulch helps keep the soil cool and conserves the moisture in the soil.
Most hydrangeas are reasonably winter hardy even in climates lots colder than mine. If you have really cold winters, lots of people leave the dead flowers on the bushes, because the cold weather will damage the ends of the branches. That way the damage doesn't effect the new buds that will open up next year.
I'm looking for someone who can tell me how to take care of Hydrangea?
We live in zone 7. My local garden center said they need to be planted on the north side of the house, and watered daily when it's hot, and believe me, it's been hot, 100+ degrees here every day for several weeks now. T he heat really wilts them in the afternnoon so that's why they are on the north side. Also, don't prune them back in the fall. OH, also, the dead flower blooms are pretty spraypainted gold or silver and used in arrangements especially at Christmas time.
Reply:Here in zone 7, mine have done well getting morning sun with rich, ammended soil. This summer has been so hot and dry that I have had to keep them watered, usually every other day, and still they will wilt some.
Reply:There are some useful tips here -
http://www.helpfulgardener.com/hydrangea...
BBC guide
http://www.bbc.co.uk/gardening/plants/pl...
Hydrangeas are interesting in that the pH level of the soil will influence the color of the flowers. If you want them to be blue, use an acid fertilizer and if you prefer pink, a standard formula of fertilizer is fine. (The packages of fertilizer are labelled, or ask someone in your yard and garden store to show you.)
Except for the newer hydrangea Endless Summer, most hydrangeas bloom out of wood that they grew last year, so you won't get repeat blooming. (Endless Summer is different because it will bloom on old and new wood, so it has a longer bloom season.) So after the blooming is over, you can either leave the dried flowers on the plant, or remove just the flower head. Don't cut the plant back any further, or you will cut off next year's flower buds. (You probably won't be able to see where they are yet, but trust me - they're already there!)
Keep the soil moist but not soggy. An inch or 2 of compost or other mulch helps keep the soil cool and conserves the moisture in the soil.
Most hydrangeas are reasonably winter hardy even in climates lots colder than mine. If you have really cold winters, lots of people leave the dead flowers on the bushes, because the cold weather will damage the ends of the branches. That way the damage doesn't effect the new buds that will open up next year.
I'm looking for someone who can tell me how to take care of Hydrangea?
We live in zone 7. My local garden center said they need to be planted on the north side of the house, and watered daily when it's hot, and believe me, it's been hot, 100+ degrees here every day for several weeks now. T he heat really wilts them in the afternnoon so that's why they are on the north side. Also, don't prune them back in the fall. OH, also, the dead flower blooms are pretty spraypainted gold or silver and used in arrangements especially at Christmas time.
Reply:Here in zone 7, mine have done well getting morning sun with rich, ammended soil. This summer has been so hot and dry that I have had to keep them watered, usually every other day, and still they will wilt some.
Reply:There are some useful tips here -
http://www.helpfulgardener.com/hydrangea...
BBC guide
http://www.bbc.co.uk/gardening/plants/pl...
Hydrangea beans - are they a vineing plant with blue flowers?
Hydrangea bean vine is an annual, fairly fast growing vine. I don't think it is related to hydrageas at all. The flower is more purple than blue.
Hydrangea beans - are they a vineing plant with blue flowers?
There may be vining hydrangeas, I don't know. They are usually a bush-type plant.
You may have wisteria, they have beans.
Hydrangea beans - are they a vineing plant with blue flowers?
There may be vining hydrangeas, I don't know. They are usually a bush-type plant.
You may have wisteria, they have beans.
How far back should I cut my hydrangea?
okay, if in uk be careful ... there is still time for frost and nothing worse than waking up to find new shoots blackened with frost.
So cut back carefully depending on how large you want it to be - if you want a large bush then dont hack it down.
Always cut just above a shoot and cut at an angle to prevent rain laying on the cut.
Then surround the base with something like newspaper or even a plastic bin liner... Take care of it and it will bloooooom beautifully ... if the shoots are showing and a frost threatens cover with an old net curtain at night.
The bits you chopped off... can create new shrubs...
Cut them just below a shoot and take out top shoots just leaving possibly one green shoot... dip into hormone powder and plant up in small container keep on kitchen windowsill or similar to keep an eye on... and then you got more shrubs for next year... Also you can change the colour of your shrubs ..by putting old pennies in the soil just around the plant. Pink plants then go blue??? enjoy x
How far back should I cut my hydrangea?
What type is it.
Reply:A general tidy-up will do, just to ensure it doesn't get top heavy, but don't do till about May.
Reply:As everyone has said wait till all danger of frost has pasted.
Most of the hydrangea pruning confusion comes from folks who have never grown hydrangeas wanting to lump them all into one pruning rule - prune in winter or prune immediately following flowering or prune to the ground or never needs pruning!!!
Each of these pruning rules is correct for some hydrangea species and cultivars, but not all.
The most straightforward hydrangeas to prune are the mostly white flowered, 'Brussels Lace,' 'Kyushu,' 'Pee Gee,' 'Pee Wee,' 'Pink Diamond,' 'Unique' and 'White Moth.' H. arborescens cultivars include 'Annabelle,' 'Hills of Snow' and 'Samantha.' All of these flower on new wood. They can be cut back immediately after flowering and may rebloom or they can be cut back in the winter and still be expected to flower the following year. How far you cut them back is completely up to your personal preference. (Unless you live in a restricted community with pruning covenants, there are no pruning police.) You don't even need to prune H. arborescens or paniculata at all but it makes for a neater plant and, if you want long stems for fresh or dried flowers, pruning back hard encourages long stems on older plants.
The the oak leaf and big leaf hydrangeas, are alleged to only flower on buds that were formed the previous season. SO, if you prune them in late fall, winter or early spring, you will be cutting off that season's flowers!!! If drastic pruning is required, do it immediately after flowering. The best and safest way to prune them is to remove some older stems but leave most stems so that you are removing about one-third of the growth each year. Many of these cultivars are also killed back every winter but regrow from buds an inch or two above the earth and flower a few feet above the ground. My advice with these is to do what you feel like doing when it comes to pruning. If cautious, prune by only removing some growth each winter. Since most of these shrubs don't seem to demand pruning in order to be attractive, don't prune unless the plants really call for it. In the mountains of NC, after years of observing over a hundred cultivars of macrophyllas, I am convinced that when plants fail to flower in our fields it is usually due to a late frost killing new growth and a slow recovery.
There is no need to prune climbing hydrangeas.
Remember the various hydrangeas have not read the rules on pruning, so they don't always follow these rules! ;)
Hope this helps.
Reply:BA HA HA HA HA HA HA
Reply:just the part that is extra - not into the region that will still make leaves %26amp; flowers or it will not be bushy
x
Reply:i cut them all the way down in the fall( i live in the upper midwest)
Reply:first, look here and find out what kind you have....
http://www.hydrangeashydrangeas.com
each type has it's own pruning needs... use the wrong one on some of them and you'll end up with no flowers.... once you find yours, look on that site for info on pruning it.... good place for info on how to dry the flowers, change the colors etc........
Reply:Hi there,
Just cut it back to behind where it flowered - right above a couple of 'buds' ...
Cheers
Lindy
So cut back carefully depending on how large you want it to be - if you want a large bush then dont hack it down.
Always cut just above a shoot and cut at an angle to prevent rain laying on the cut.
Then surround the base with something like newspaper or even a plastic bin liner... Take care of it and it will bloooooom beautifully ... if the shoots are showing and a frost threatens cover with an old net curtain at night.
The bits you chopped off... can create new shrubs...
Cut them just below a shoot and take out top shoots just leaving possibly one green shoot... dip into hormone powder and plant up in small container keep on kitchen windowsill or similar to keep an eye on... and then you got more shrubs for next year... Also you can change the colour of your shrubs ..by putting old pennies in the soil just around the plant. Pink plants then go blue??? enjoy x
How far back should I cut my hydrangea?
What type is it.
Reply:A general tidy-up will do, just to ensure it doesn't get top heavy, but don't do till about May.
Reply:As everyone has said wait till all danger of frost has pasted.
Most of the hydrangea pruning confusion comes from folks who have never grown hydrangeas wanting to lump them all into one pruning rule - prune in winter or prune immediately following flowering or prune to the ground or never needs pruning!!!
Each of these pruning rules is correct for some hydrangea species and cultivars, but not all.
The most straightforward hydrangeas to prune are the mostly white flowered, 'Brussels Lace,' 'Kyushu,' 'Pee Gee,' 'Pee Wee,' 'Pink Diamond,' 'Unique' and 'White Moth.' H. arborescens cultivars include 'Annabelle,' 'Hills of Snow' and 'Samantha.' All of these flower on new wood. They can be cut back immediately after flowering and may rebloom or they can be cut back in the winter and still be expected to flower the following year. How far you cut them back is completely up to your personal preference. (Unless you live in a restricted community with pruning covenants, there are no pruning police.) You don't even need to prune H. arborescens or paniculata at all but it makes for a neater plant and, if you want long stems for fresh or dried flowers, pruning back hard encourages long stems on older plants.
The the oak leaf and big leaf hydrangeas, are alleged to only flower on buds that were formed the previous season. SO, if you prune them in late fall, winter or early spring, you will be cutting off that season's flowers!!! If drastic pruning is required, do it immediately after flowering. The best and safest way to prune them is to remove some older stems but leave most stems so that you are removing about one-third of the growth each year. Many of these cultivars are also killed back every winter but regrow from buds an inch or two above the earth and flower a few feet above the ground. My advice with these is to do what you feel like doing when it comes to pruning. If cautious, prune by only removing some growth each winter. Since most of these shrubs don't seem to demand pruning in order to be attractive, don't prune unless the plants really call for it. In the mountains of NC, after years of observing over a hundred cultivars of macrophyllas, I am convinced that when plants fail to flower in our fields it is usually due to a late frost killing new growth and a slow recovery.
There is no need to prune climbing hydrangeas.
Remember the various hydrangeas have not read the rules on pruning, so they don't always follow these rules! ;)
Hope this helps.
Reply:BA HA HA HA HA HA HA
Reply:just the part that is extra - not into the region that will still make leaves %26amp; flowers or it will not be bushy
x
Reply:i cut them all the way down in the fall( i live in the upper midwest)
Reply:first, look here and find out what kind you have....
http://www.hydrangeashydrangeas.com
each type has it's own pruning needs... use the wrong one on some of them and you'll end up with no flowers.... once you find yours, look on that site for info on pruning it.... good place for info on how to dry the flowers, change the colors etc........
Reply:Hi there,
Just cut it back to behind where it flowered - right above a couple of 'buds' ...
Cheers
Lindy
I have a beautiful hydrangea and...?
this hydrangea is over 10 yrs old. it has bloomed every year except for this one. it doesn't even have 1 leaf on it. its all sticks. what happened to it? i dont know what i did wrong. maybe i cut the old flowers off to soon? any suggestions?
I have a beautiful hydrangea and...?
I had to cut mine all the way to the ground this year, and now it is throwing off a lot of shoots. . . Had to this with a variety of plants because of the crazy weather :) GL!!!
Reply:I usually cut my hydrangea back every other year or so and it always comes back either way.
Try cutting it back and see what happens. Also, maybe a little fertilizer will help.
My hydrangea is close to 20 years old and I live in Minnesota.
Reply:It is probably the weather. Many people lost plants and shrubs from the colder than normal winter. And some had a late frost or freeze that killed many shrubs as they began to leaf out.
It's a wait and see situation now. Keep watering it for a couple of weeks and see what happens.
Teeth Cleaning
I have a beautiful hydrangea and...?
I had to cut mine all the way to the ground this year, and now it is throwing off a lot of shoots. . . Had to this with a variety of plants because of the crazy weather :) GL!!!
Reply:I usually cut my hydrangea back every other year or so and it always comes back either way.
Try cutting it back and see what happens. Also, maybe a little fertilizer will help.
My hydrangea is close to 20 years old and I live in Minnesota.
Reply:It is probably the weather. Many people lost plants and shrubs from the colder than normal winter. And some had a late frost or freeze that killed many shrubs as they began to leaf out.
It's a wait and see situation now. Keep watering it for a couple of weeks and see what happens.
Teeth Cleaning
I bought a summer hydrangea. it says to plant in alkaline soil, how do get my soil to be alkaline soil?
Before adding anything, have a soil test done to make sure your soil is truly acidic. If you do have an acidic soil...with a pH of 6.5 or lower, then you will want to add lime to your soil...to bring the pH up to 7.5 or higher. Be careful not to add too much lime. You can make your soil toxic if you reach a pH of 9. Good luck...Is it a pink hydrangea or something?
I bought a summer hydrangea. it says to plant in alkaline soil, how do get my soil to be alkaline soil?
You can buy fertiliser with alkaline, however depending on where you live your soil may have enough already. Have a sample tested, usually you can get this done at your local college or garden store (a real garden store NOT Walmart!). Or you can add it by the old way, used coffee grounds.
Reply:Save yourself some time and money. Purchase a soil test kit from a garden center. You will then find out if your soil is already alkaline or acidic. Without knowing what type of soil you already have, you cannot amend it. The test kits are cheap, under $5 and super wasy to do.
With Hydrangeas you can plant in any soil you would like for bloomimg. If you like the blue/purple flowers it needs an acidic soil, if you want the pink ones it needs an alkaline soil. Be sure to test the area you wantto plant in for the best results. Good Luck
Reply:break open a few batteries and stick em' in the soil...and you've got yourself Alkaline soil...
Reply:You can prob get an idea of your soil and its pH from your local nursery (REAL nursery) and they can advise you accordingly. You can also get fertilizer formulated specifically for acid loving plants, of which there are actually many. Note: you CAN get organic fert. for acid loving plants.
I bought a summer hydrangea. it says to plant in alkaline soil, how do get my soil to be alkaline soil?
You can buy fertiliser with alkaline, however depending on where you live your soil may have enough already. Have a sample tested, usually you can get this done at your local college or garden store (a real garden store NOT Walmart!). Or you can add it by the old way, used coffee grounds.
Reply:Save yourself some time and money. Purchase a soil test kit from a garden center. You will then find out if your soil is already alkaline or acidic. Without knowing what type of soil you already have, you cannot amend it. The test kits are cheap, under $5 and super wasy to do.
With Hydrangeas you can plant in any soil you would like for bloomimg. If you like the blue/purple flowers it needs an acidic soil, if you want the pink ones it needs an alkaline soil. Be sure to test the area you wantto plant in for the best results. Good Luck
Reply:break open a few batteries and stick em' in the soil...and you've got yourself Alkaline soil...
Reply:You can prob get an idea of your soil and its pH from your local nursery (REAL nursery) and they can advise you accordingly. You can also get fertilizer formulated specifically for acid loving plants, of which there are actually many. Note: you CAN get organic fert. for acid loving plants.
Do Hydrangea flowers have a strong scent?
I'm trying to gather information on them because I would really like to use them for my wedding, but Im a little sensitive to scents (sinus) and so would a few of my guest.
Do Hydrangea flowers have a strong scent?
I have 23 varieties of hydrangea, and not one has a discernible scent. They last a long time in a vase or bouquet and can be dried for a keepsake, particularly if you use the blue ones.
Best wishes for a wonderful life together and enjoy the happy occasion!
Reply:Hydrangeas are not strong smelling flowers.
http://www.flowersbulbs.com/hydrangea.ph...
Reply:Hydrangeas will be ok,they have very little scent.
Reply:A very nice and long lasting cut flower with no scent.
Do Hydrangea flowers have a strong scent?
I have 23 varieties of hydrangea, and not one has a discernible scent. They last a long time in a vase or bouquet and can be dried for a keepsake, particularly if you use the blue ones.
Best wishes for a wonderful life together and enjoy the happy occasion!
Reply:Hydrangeas are not strong smelling flowers.
http://www.flowersbulbs.com/hydrangea.ph...
Reply:Hydrangeas will be ok,they have very little scent.
Reply:A very nice and long lasting cut flower with no scent.
Why doesn't my hydrangea produce flowers?
I moved into a home almost 1 year ago. There is a plant next to my door that I was told was a hydrangea bush. It still has not produced any flowers. Why? Is there something I can do to help it flower?
Why doesn't my hydrangea produce flowers?
When did you or did you prune this hydrangea bush? If you pruned it too much in the fall or pruned it too late in the spring you will have removed the future flower buds. Many types of the old fashioned hyrangeas only bloom on last years growth. The new varieties ie endless summer bloom on last and this years growth. Also, the others are right about the special needs of hydrangeas and other acid loving plants, so try applying a fertilizer designed for camellias, rhodos and azaleas. Miracid was the name for it, by miracle gro but I haven't seen it on the shelves lately. Other companies make fertilizers like it. note: the hydrangeas flowers often tell you what your soil is like. If it is supposed to be a fairly blue flower but looks pinkish the soil is too sweet, needs acid so add aluminum sulphate. Add lime if is supposed to be red / pink and looks more bluish.
Reply:hydrangeas bloom on second year growth, therefore, you only want to prune the canes that flower this year. The canes that do not produce flowers this year should flower next year. Adding aluminum sulfate will change the color of the bloom from pink to blue but doesn't really help the actual formation of the bud. Also, did you have any frost damage early spring last year??/ that may also be the problem. good luck
Reply:I think it is called Miracid--a fertilizer that has the acid enuff for rhodies and hydrangeas.
Reply:It may need some flowering feed. Alot of flowering plants need a certain chemical to flower, ask your local flower guy.
Reply:The soil is not acidic enough. You will have to use an acidic fertilizer on it to get it to bloom. There are special fertilizers for hydrangea's.
Reply:Try having another one planted.I heard something about this before.I believe that they need more than one because of pollination or something.My Parents neighbor has them and they always had 4....2 blue/purple and 2 white......
Why doesn't my hydrangea produce flowers?
When did you or did you prune this hydrangea bush? If you pruned it too much in the fall or pruned it too late in the spring you will have removed the future flower buds. Many types of the old fashioned hyrangeas only bloom on last years growth. The new varieties ie endless summer bloom on last and this years growth. Also, the others are right about the special needs of hydrangeas and other acid loving plants, so try applying a fertilizer designed for camellias, rhodos and azaleas. Miracid was the name for it, by miracle gro but I haven't seen it on the shelves lately. Other companies make fertilizers like it. note: the hydrangeas flowers often tell you what your soil is like. If it is supposed to be a fairly blue flower but looks pinkish the soil is too sweet, needs acid so add aluminum sulphate. Add lime if is supposed to be red / pink and looks more bluish.
Reply:hydrangeas bloom on second year growth, therefore, you only want to prune the canes that flower this year. The canes that do not produce flowers this year should flower next year. Adding aluminum sulfate will change the color of the bloom from pink to blue but doesn't really help the actual formation of the bud. Also, did you have any frost damage early spring last year??/ that may also be the problem. good luck
Reply:I think it is called Miracid--a fertilizer that has the acid enuff for rhodies and hydrangeas.
Reply:It may need some flowering feed. Alot of flowering plants need a certain chemical to flower, ask your local flower guy.
Reply:The soil is not acidic enough. You will have to use an acidic fertilizer on it to get it to bloom. There are special fertilizers for hydrangea's.
Reply:Try having another one planted.I heard something about this before.I believe that they need more than one because of pollination or something.My Parents neighbor has them and they always had 4....2 blue/purple and 2 white......
Can you grow Hydrangea indoors?
I only have a small window box ourdoors and was thinking to grow it indoors if possible!!
Can you grow Hydrangea indoors?
Hydrangeas can be grown satisfactorily on a light windowsill indoors,until the plant grows too large.When this happens,simply cut off a stem with two strong leaves,make the cut just below a leaf joint,leaving a cutting app;4" long.
Dip the cut end in water,then in hormone rooting compound.Insert into a small flowerpot of cutting compost,cover with a plastic bag,place in a light position and in a short time a new plant will result.
Reply:Yes, as long as it gets adequate sunlight.
Reply:Yes,but don't do it as first they are intolerent of dryness (hydra) and so are high maintenence.The main reason is they are unattractive as they slowly lose leaves and are bare in late autumn,winter and early spring so the ugly period is too long for indoors
dermatitis
Can you grow Hydrangea indoors?
Hydrangeas can be grown satisfactorily on a light windowsill indoors,until the plant grows too large.When this happens,simply cut off a stem with two strong leaves,make the cut just below a leaf joint,leaving a cutting app;4" long.
Dip the cut end in water,then in hormone rooting compound.Insert into a small flowerpot of cutting compost,cover with a plastic bag,place in a light position and in a short time a new plant will result.
Reply:Yes, as long as it gets adequate sunlight.
Reply:Yes,but don't do it as first they are intolerent of dryness (hydra) and so are high maintenence.The main reason is they are unattractive as they slowly lose leaves and are bare in late autumn,winter and early spring so the ugly period is too long for indoors
dermatitis
Has anyione heard of a hydrangea named "marie "?
I bought a couple at home depot today as they are on clearance (I live in zone 5) and the planter states "hydrangea marie var bl"
Has anyione heard of a hydrangea named "marie "?
There's a hydrangea with the botanical name Hydrangea macrophylla 'Mariesii' - it's a variegated lacecap hydrangea, meaning that it's flowers are not the big softball-shaped flowers. They are a flattened cluster of sterile and non-sterile flowers. They don't usually flower reliably.
Reply:There is a hydrangea macrophillia named "Marie Claire", it is pink and white. Not familiar with just plain "Marie".
Added: Home Depot doesn't even list them on their website as a plant they carry. My husband works there in the garden center and he says they didn't have them here this year, but Home Depot has "zones" where they carry certain plants in each zone, and one store might have something totally different from another, so who knows? They might have come from one of the vendors, but I can find no information on that variety at all, anywhere.
Has anyione heard of a hydrangea named "marie "?
There's a hydrangea with the botanical name Hydrangea macrophylla 'Mariesii' - it's a variegated lacecap hydrangea, meaning that it's flowers are not the big softball-shaped flowers. They are a flattened cluster of sterile and non-sterile flowers. They don't usually flower reliably.
Reply:There is a hydrangea macrophillia named "Marie Claire", it is pink and white. Not familiar with just plain "Marie".
Added: Home Depot doesn't even list them on their website as a plant they carry. My husband works there in the garden center and he says they didn't have them here this year, but Home Depot has "zones" where they carry certain plants in each zone, and one store might have something totally different from another, so who knows? They might have come from one of the vendors, but I can find no information on that variety at all, anywhere.
Underground Wasp nest under hydrangea bush?
I have a wasp (yellow jacket) nest underground at the base of my hydrangea bush. I don't want to kill the bush, but what can I use to kill the nest? I can't garden there due to the wasps. I can see the hole, right by the base of the bush. Even if I ignore them, will the re use the nest next year or is that not likely to happen? I don't want to use anything that may kill the root system of my bush.
Underground Wasp nest under hydrangea bush?
Get a good wasp spray at your local hardware. Wait until all the wasps have gone home for the night. Then spray directly into the hole. If some try to escape, just continue to spray as they come out. If there are any you see the next day, repeat the treatment. This will not harm your hydrangea.
Reply:Yes, they are awful aren't they!?! I had one a couple of years ago. At night water that area often, keep as wet as you can without killing your shrub. They will leave and not come back the next year.
Reply:There's wasp and hornet killer that you can buy at any hardware store that will be perfectly safe on the root system of your bush.
Underground Wasp nest under hydrangea bush?
Get a good wasp spray at your local hardware. Wait until all the wasps have gone home for the night. Then spray directly into the hole. If some try to escape, just continue to spray as they come out. If there are any you see the next day, repeat the treatment. This will not harm your hydrangea.
Reply:Yes, they are awful aren't they!?! I had one a couple of years ago. At night water that area often, keep as wet as you can without killing your shrub. They will leave and not come back the next year.
Reply:There's wasp and hornet killer that you can buy at any hardware store that will be perfectly safe on the root system of your bush.
Is it too late to transplant a hydrangea plant?
Authorities agree that the BEST TIME to transplant hydrangeas is when they are dormant, i.e. after most of the leaves have fallen off the hydrangeas.Transplant hydrangeas in late October, November to late December,as long as your ground isn't frozen, January and February are fine, too. If you are unsure when to transplant, ask a local nurseryman.
TRANSPLANTING TIPS
When digging hydrangea to transplant, dig up as much of the rootball as possible. It may be VERY heavy, so you might want to get some help with this.
If you transplant while your hydrangeas are dormant (the best time), water them deeply one time. They may need no more water until spring brings warmer weather. If you live in a hot dry climate, regular watering during the summer will be very important for the first and second summer.
The best way to water is deeply. It's better to water well and not water too often. Watering every day can be just as destructive as allowing them to dry out.
If your soil does not drain well, do not allow it to remain soggy around the hydrangeas. This is especially true for Oakleaf hydrangeas which will rot in a heart-beat if they stand in soil that is wet.
Is it too late to transplant a hydrangea plant?
you can transplant anything at anytime as long it is in a pot. If it buried in the ground you would need to get as much of the root ball as possible to give it the best chance to re settle in to its new position. mind and add some fertiliser in the new position before planting or blood,fish and bonemeal. This will help give it a really good start and mind and water it in well.
Good luck
Reply:Is it in a pot? If it is, no problem.
If its in the ground, take as big a root ball as you can, water it in well, and it should be Ok.
Reply:most hydrangea's are now coming into flower ... so by digging them up you will loose this years flowers
Reply:http://www.gardenersnet.com/flower/hydra...
It should be fine to transplant it.
Reply:No,Has long has its not any flowers or buds on it
Reply:It should be OK, as long as you use a good planting mixture, and give plenty of water. Prune your Hydrangea back to 2 or 3 good strong buds and be sure to get a large root ball. Hydrangea shouldn't be flowering till mid summer, early autumn, they should be planted in spring anyway, so you shouldn't be too late. Transplant in sun or dappled shade.
Professional Gardner for 30 odd yrs and still going.
TRANSPLANTING TIPS
When digging hydrangea to transplant, dig up as much of the rootball as possible. It may be VERY heavy, so you might want to get some help with this.
If you transplant while your hydrangeas are dormant (the best time), water them deeply one time. They may need no more water until spring brings warmer weather. If you live in a hot dry climate, regular watering during the summer will be very important for the first and second summer.
The best way to water is deeply. It's better to water well and not water too often. Watering every day can be just as destructive as allowing them to dry out.
If your soil does not drain well, do not allow it to remain soggy around the hydrangeas. This is especially true for Oakleaf hydrangeas which will rot in a heart-beat if they stand in soil that is wet.
Is it too late to transplant a hydrangea plant?
you can transplant anything at anytime as long it is in a pot. If it buried in the ground you would need to get as much of the root ball as possible to give it the best chance to re settle in to its new position. mind and add some fertiliser in the new position before planting or blood,fish and bonemeal. This will help give it a really good start and mind and water it in well.
Good luck
Reply:Is it in a pot? If it is, no problem.
If its in the ground, take as big a root ball as you can, water it in well, and it should be Ok.
Reply:most hydrangea's are now coming into flower ... so by digging them up you will loose this years flowers
Reply:http://www.gardenersnet.com/flower/hydra...
It should be fine to transplant it.
Reply:No,Has long has its not any flowers or buds on it
Reply:It should be OK, as long as you use a good planting mixture, and give plenty of water. Prune your Hydrangea back to 2 or 3 good strong buds and be sure to get a large root ball. Hydrangea shouldn't be flowering till mid summer, early autumn, they should be planted in spring anyway, so you shouldn't be too late. Transplant in sun or dappled shade.
Professional Gardner for 30 odd yrs and still going.
When is the best time to transplant my hydrangea bush? I'm zone 7.?
I'm going to move it over with my other hydregeas.
When is the best time to transplant my hydrangea bush? I'm zone 7.?
In about a month or so. You want the heat from the summer to cool down, to about 70-80 degrees, yet be warm enough that the plant has not gone into its dormancy period.
When you transplant, cut back the limbs about 1/3. This will reduce the amount of sunlight and water the plant needs for photsynthesis while also giving it enough growing ability to send out its new roots.
You should water the hydrangea each evening. Give it a good soaking. After about 2 weeks, make it every other day until your trees start losing their leaves. Then, water it only if the weather has been dry (i.e, no rain).
It should be fine come spring. Do not wait until spring to transplant, since it is a very water-thirsty plant. (Do you really want to water it all summer?) When you transplant, you do so understanding that there will ne no or few blooms the following summer.
Reply:In the spring. Will be less stress on the plant.
deodorizers
When is the best time to transplant my hydrangea bush? I'm zone 7.?
In about a month or so. You want the heat from the summer to cool down, to about 70-80 degrees, yet be warm enough that the plant has not gone into its dormancy period.
When you transplant, cut back the limbs about 1/3. This will reduce the amount of sunlight and water the plant needs for photsynthesis while also giving it enough growing ability to send out its new roots.
You should water the hydrangea each evening. Give it a good soaking. After about 2 weeks, make it every other day until your trees start losing their leaves. Then, water it only if the weather has been dry (i.e, no rain).
It should be fine come spring. Do not wait until spring to transplant, since it is a very water-thirsty plant. (Do you really want to water it all summer?) When you transplant, you do so understanding that there will ne no or few blooms the following summer.
Reply:In the spring. Will be less stress on the plant.
deodorizers
Hydrangea tree (P.G.) should I be cutting back the branches in the fall like one would a shrub?
It's 2 yrs old and just now produced 2 new shoots.
(It's lovely, I hate to touch it, but want to do the right thing.)
Hydrangea tree (P.G.) should I be cutting back the branches in the fall like one would a shrub?
Your Peegee's (paniculata grandflora) or treedrangeas, don't require hard pruning. They are a different growing type altogether, and don't need to be pruned just after they bloom, unlike some varieties who's flowers set right after blooming. With Peegees, new flower buds will be set on new spring growth. Some gentle pruning in late winter or very early spring will not only keep the plants from becoming overgrown, but it will also encourage more new growth along with, hopefully, more flower buds. You can however, remove dead and spent flowers as soon as they become unattractive and clean up the overall shape of the plant. They only require light nipping here and there, to keep them in check and shaped up. Hope this answers your question.
**Billy Ray**
Reply:Why thankyou! Report It
Reply:after the season is over and all the leaves and blooms have fallen off. do pare back your Hydrangea as you would a shrub. Get it down to almost a nub. It will grown back even better the next time.
Reply:In general, no. Most hydrangeas bloom on old wood %26amp; cutting them back in the fall means sacrificing next year's blooms. They should be pruned right after they bloom.
Reply:Here are two links for you:
http://www.hydrangeashydrangeas.com/prun...
http://www.carrollgardens.com/Trees_Shru...
Before you prune, it is very important to know what type of H. you have.
(It's lovely, I hate to touch it, but want to do the right thing.)
Hydrangea tree (P.G.) should I be cutting back the branches in the fall like one would a shrub?
Your Peegee's (paniculata grandflora) or treedrangeas, don't require hard pruning. They are a different growing type altogether, and don't need to be pruned just after they bloom, unlike some varieties who's flowers set right after blooming. With Peegees, new flower buds will be set on new spring growth. Some gentle pruning in late winter or very early spring will not only keep the plants from becoming overgrown, but it will also encourage more new growth along with, hopefully, more flower buds. You can however, remove dead and spent flowers as soon as they become unattractive and clean up the overall shape of the plant. They only require light nipping here and there, to keep them in check and shaped up. Hope this answers your question.
**Billy Ray**
Reply:Why thankyou! Report It
Reply:after the season is over and all the leaves and blooms have fallen off. do pare back your Hydrangea as you would a shrub. Get it down to almost a nub. It will grown back even better the next time.
Reply:In general, no. Most hydrangeas bloom on old wood %26amp; cutting them back in the fall means sacrificing next year's blooms. They should be pruned right after they bloom.
Reply:Here are two links for you:
http://www.hydrangeashydrangeas.com/prun...
http://www.carrollgardens.com/Trees_Shru...
Before you prune, it is very important to know what type of H. you have.
Hydrangea tree (P.G.) should I be cutting back the branches in the fall like one would a shrub?
It's 2 yrs old and just now produced 2 new shoots.
(It's lovely, I hate to touch it, but want to do the right thing.)
Hydrangea tree (P.G.) should I be cutting back the branches in the fall like one would a shrub?
Your Peegee's (paniculata grandflora) or treedrangeas, don't require hard pruning. They are a different growing type altogether, and don't need to be pruned just after they bloom, unlike some varieties who's flowers set right after blooming. With Peegees, new flower buds will be set on new spring growth. Some gentle pruning in late winter or very early spring will not only keep the plants from becoming overgrown, but it will also encourage more new growth along with, hopefully, more flower buds. You can however, remove dead and spent flowers as soon as they become unattractive and clean up the overall shape of the plant. They only require light nipping here and there, to keep them in check and shaped up. Hope this answers your question.
**Billy Ray**
Reply:Why thankyou! Report It
Reply:after the season is over and all the leaves and blooms have fallen off. do pare back your Hydrangea as you would a shrub. Get it down to almost a nub. It will grown back even better the next time.
Reply:In general, no. Most hydrangeas bloom on old wood %26amp; cutting them back in the fall means sacrificing next year's blooms. They should be pruned right after they bloom.
Reply:Here are two links for you:
http://www.hydrangeashydrangeas.com/prun...
http://www.carrollgardens.com/Trees_Shru...
Before you prune, it is very important to know what type of H. you have.
Decent makeup brands
(It's lovely, I hate to touch it, but want to do the right thing.)
Hydrangea tree (P.G.) should I be cutting back the branches in the fall like one would a shrub?
Your Peegee's (paniculata grandflora) or treedrangeas, don't require hard pruning. They are a different growing type altogether, and don't need to be pruned just after they bloom, unlike some varieties who's flowers set right after blooming. With Peegees, new flower buds will be set on new spring growth. Some gentle pruning in late winter or very early spring will not only keep the plants from becoming overgrown, but it will also encourage more new growth along with, hopefully, more flower buds. You can however, remove dead and spent flowers as soon as they become unattractive and clean up the overall shape of the plant. They only require light nipping here and there, to keep them in check and shaped up. Hope this answers your question.
**Billy Ray**
Reply:Why thankyou! Report It
Reply:after the season is over and all the leaves and blooms have fallen off. do pare back your Hydrangea as you would a shrub. Get it down to almost a nub. It will grown back even better the next time.
Reply:In general, no. Most hydrangeas bloom on old wood %26amp; cutting them back in the fall means sacrificing next year's blooms. They should be pruned right after they bloom.
Reply:Here are two links for you:
http://www.hydrangeashydrangeas.com/prun...
http://www.carrollgardens.com/Trees_Shru...
Before you prune, it is very important to know what type of H. you have.
Decent makeup brands
Why won'y my hydrangea produce flowers?
It was a small plant which I planted - we live in the north east.
I planted it 3 years ago - the first year I cut the spikes off and have not done it since.Thanks you
Why won'y my hydrangea produce flowers?
Most common reasons a hydrangea won't bloom:
1) Pruning at the wrong time during the season and eliminating next year's flower buds (apparently not your problem).
2) Some Hydrangea flower buds are not cold hardy in zones 5 or less. While mophead hydrangeas will grow like crazy and give you lots of great foliage, the Mophead Hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla) flower buds burn in a normal zone 5 or colder winter. Pee Gee Hydrangea (Hydrangea paniculata) or annabelle Hydrangea (Hydrangea arborescens) flower buds are cold hardy to zone 5.
3) Planted in heavy shade. Too much shade can be a cause of non flowering simply because of the lack of energy from the sun. You will notice less flowers gradually as the years go on. Transplant to a sunnier location.
4) Severe dry spells the season before can and does cause the hydrangea to not flower. This can be avoided by choosing a location that is not too sunny and by adding some supplemental watering during the growing season. Hydrangea will not bloom because of too much sun! Its the lack of water that affects the bloom. The more sun, the more water they need.
5) Use of a high Nitrogen fertilizer will promote lush new growth at the expense of flower production. Use a balanced (10-10-10) slow release, granular fertilizer %26amp; don't over do it.
Reply:what kind of Hydrantea? Is it in full sun--needs to be for best flowering, and do you fertilize it? Keep it well watered and fertilize weekly with a high phosphorous fertilizer.
Use an acidifier if it has a blue flower.
Reply:First of all, if you planted a small plant, it can take several years to get acclimated to where you planted it %26amp; this will affect whether or not it's been blooming.
Secondly, have you planted it in the right spot? Hydrangeas don't like full sun %26amp; should be planted on the northern or eastern side of a building. Also, make sure you're giving it plenty of water. The "Hydra" in teh name hydrangea is from the Greek word for water %26amp; then like plenty of it.
Lastly, unless you have an "Endless Summer" hydrangea, your plant will grow on old wood and should only be pruned right after it flowers in the summer. Pruning in the late winter or early spring will result in your cutting off the part of the limbs that will produce the next season's flowers.
Good luck!
I planted it 3 years ago - the first year I cut the spikes off and have not done it since.Thanks you
Why won'y my hydrangea produce flowers?
Most common reasons a hydrangea won't bloom:
1) Pruning at the wrong time during the season and eliminating next year's flower buds (apparently not your problem).
2) Some Hydrangea flower buds are not cold hardy in zones 5 or less. While mophead hydrangeas will grow like crazy and give you lots of great foliage, the Mophead Hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla) flower buds burn in a normal zone 5 or colder winter. Pee Gee Hydrangea (Hydrangea paniculata) or annabelle Hydrangea (Hydrangea arborescens) flower buds are cold hardy to zone 5.
3) Planted in heavy shade. Too much shade can be a cause of non flowering simply because of the lack of energy from the sun. You will notice less flowers gradually as the years go on. Transplant to a sunnier location.
4) Severe dry spells the season before can and does cause the hydrangea to not flower. This can be avoided by choosing a location that is not too sunny and by adding some supplemental watering during the growing season. Hydrangea will not bloom because of too much sun! Its the lack of water that affects the bloom. The more sun, the more water they need.
5) Use of a high Nitrogen fertilizer will promote lush new growth at the expense of flower production. Use a balanced (10-10-10) slow release, granular fertilizer %26amp; don't over do it.
Reply:what kind of Hydrantea? Is it in full sun--needs to be for best flowering, and do you fertilize it? Keep it well watered and fertilize weekly with a high phosphorous fertilizer.
Use an acidifier if it has a blue flower.
Reply:First of all, if you planted a small plant, it can take several years to get acclimated to where you planted it %26amp; this will affect whether or not it's been blooming.
Secondly, have you planted it in the right spot? Hydrangeas don't like full sun %26amp; should be planted on the northern or eastern side of a building. Also, make sure you're giving it plenty of water. The "Hydra" in teh name hydrangea is from the Greek word for water %26amp; then like plenty of it.
Lastly, unless you have an "Endless Summer" hydrangea, your plant will grow on old wood and should only be pruned right after it flowers in the summer. Pruning in the late winter or early spring will result in your cutting off the part of the limbs that will produce the next season's flowers.
Good luck!
I have 3 hydrangea bushes None of them bloom.can you tell me why.I 've had them 5 years?
The foliage on them are beautiful ,but no boooms
I have 3 hydrangea bushes None of them bloom.can you tell me why.I 've had them 5 years?
Don't cut them back, some hydrangeas bloom on the old stems that look dead...also if you had a late spring frost this will nip the buds for the blooms, ..
Reply:Depending on your zone the older hydrangea plants have problems with late frost.I had two out front that made it seven years without a bloom.I decided to relocate them to the landfill.I planted a couple of new hybrids and my hydrangea problems went away.
Reply:they need acidic soil--try miracle gro's version miracid
Reply:likely missing something in the soil.
Bring a soil sample to your garden center.
They will tell youwhat you need
Try putting some egg shells around the bottoms during the cold months to fertilize them
Reply:Most likely you are cutting them back, do not !
Also do not use too much Nitrogen fertilizer- it promotes lush foliage but not flowers. Don't fertilize this year if that's the mistake.
Reply:cover the soil around them with pine needles and mulch...make sure the pine needles are very wet when placing them there so they will decompose into the soil...the mulch should help with the decomposition as well...
Reply:Pruning:
http://www.hydrangeashydrangeas.com/prun...
More information to help you:
http://www.hydrangeashydrangeas.com/wont...
I have 3 hydrangea bushes None of them bloom.can you tell me why.I 've had them 5 years?
Don't cut them back, some hydrangeas bloom on the old stems that look dead...also if you had a late spring frost this will nip the buds for the blooms, ..
Reply:Depending on your zone the older hydrangea plants have problems with late frost.I had two out front that made it seven years without a bloom.I decided to relocate them to the landfill.I planted a couple of new hybrids and my hydrangea problems went away.
Reply:they need acidic soil--try miracle gro's version miracid
Reply:likely missing something in the soil.
Bring a soil sample to your garden center.
They will tell youwhat you need
Try putting some egg shells around the bottoms during the cold months to fertilize them
Reply:Most likely you are cutting them back, do not !
Also do not use too much Nitrogen fertilizer- it promotes lush foliage but not flowers. Don't fertilize this year if that's the mistake.
Reply:cover the soil around them with pine needles and mulch...make sure the pine needles are very wet when placing them there so they will decompose into the soil...the mulch should help with the decomposition as well...
Reply:Pruning:
http://www.hydrangeashydrangeas.com/prun...
More information to help you:
http://www.hydrangeashydrangeas.com/wont...
Can a hydrangea be transplanted/ split?
Yep, they sure can. The best time to do it is before they bloom in the spring when the new growth begins. You can take a new growth area and it will root in the ground. Or, you can take some small stems with leaves and put them in water. Eventually they will root. You could even do it with some of the hydrangea flowers next season. You can put the flowers in water, wait for them to die, and keep fresh water on the stem. It will also root. They usually grow pretty fast once they are in the ground, so get roots, and put them out mid to late summer. They should grow again next spring.
Can a hydrangea be transplanted/ split?
Yes you can transplant a hydrangea. Try not to disturb the roots and move it carefully and it should do fine. I wouldn't try to split it, but think you should be able to take a cutting, put Rootone on the end and plant it. Good luck.
Can a hydrangea be transplanted/ split?
Yes you can transplant a hydrangea. Try not to disturb the roots and move it carefully and it should do fine. I wouldn't try to split it, but think you should be able to take a cutting, put Rootone on the end and plant it. Good luck.
What do you add to the soil to make a pink Hydrangea turn blue?
I am in zone 5 and I add Aluminum Sulphate to the plant in April . Just buy it in a bag and mix to the directions and water your Hydrangea with it. I usually fertilize my Hydrangea a couple times in April to make sure it gets to the roots and then in the summer when it blooms it is a beautiful Blue.You need to do this every Spring to have the blue color or you will have a pink Hydrangea.
What do you add to the soil to make a pink Hydrangea turn blue?
water with blue die, although that may turn it purple
Reply:iron sulphate...or put a hand full off rusty iron nails just under the soil by the roots
Reply:Aluminum Sulfate is added.It's best if you "spike it into the root system.
safety shoes
What do you add to the soil to make a pink Hydrangea turn blue?
water with blue die, although that may turn it purple
Reply:iron sulphate...or put a hand full off rusty iron nails just under the soil by the roots
Reply:Aluminum Sulfate is added.It's best if you "spike it into the root system.
safety shoes
How tall can a Hydrangea tree(Hyd. P.G.) grow?
How far does the root system go? Spreading and depth?Thanks
How tall can a Hydrangea tree(Hyd. P.G.) grow?
been working in the nursery for 20 years and the tellest i have ever seen one grow was 5 to 6 feet tall the root dont grow that deep thats why they are hard to dig and put a root ball on because there are not enough roots to hold it together work in a nursery in tennessee
Reply:Look here:
http://www.floridata.com/ref/h/hydr_pan....
How tall can a Hydrangea tree(Hyd. P.G.) grow?
been working in the nursery for 20 years and the tellest i have ever seen one grow was 5 to 6 feet tall the root dont grow that deep thats why they are hard to dig and put a root ball on because there are not enough roots to hold it together work in a nursery in tennessee
Reply:Look here:
http://www.floridata.com/ref/h/hydr_pan....
Did I kill my hydrangea?
I bought a small hydrangea. It had already put out shoots in the packageing. I planted it and a about a couple days later the green shoots died and wilted and its been over a week and no more have came up. Did I kill it? Or is this common shock from planting it?
Did I kill my hydrangea?
Unless it somehow was sitting in the sun and cooked in the packaging, it should be fine. If it was warm enough just before or during shipping to sprout, but the outdoor weather was a little harsher, it could shock it pretty badly, but it should recover. Shock it can often handle, a cooking it can't.
Reply:After it blooms it will die back and come back next season.
Reply:Don't give up on it just keep it moist and feed it (low dose) and wait and see.
Reply:LIKE ARNIE SAID
"I,LL BE BACK"
Did I kill my hydrangea?
Unless it somehow was sitting in the sun and cooked in the packaging, it should be fine. If it was warm enough just before or during shipping to sprout, but the outdoor weather was a little harsher, it could shock it pretty badly, but it should recover. Shock it can often handle, a cooking it can't.
Reply:After it blooms it will die back and come back next season.
Reply:Don't give up on it just keep it moist and feed it (low dose) and wait and see.
Reply:LIKE ARNIE SAID
"I,LL BE BACK"
PeeGee hydrangea - only half of it has leaves?
My PeeGee hydrangea started growing leaves these past few weeks, but for some reason only half of the bush has leaves - the other half is just wood stems - does this mean I am going to lose the bush? It was so big by the end of last fall I cut it back but I cut all around on it and not just on one side, so I don't understand why only half of it has leaves on it. Can anyone help??
PeeGee hydrangea - only half of it has leaves?
Hi:
I am a landscaper and designer. The PeeGee Hydrangea is a hardy cold weather shrub. You pruned back in the fall. One question, did you prune the branches at an angle? This is very important for the health of any plant specimen.
One thing you can check right now. Take your fingernail or a small knife and scratch the surface of a branch with no leaves. If it is green it is healthy. If it is brown, it may be shock. You can loosen the soil around the plant and add a good quality fertilizer or add some organic mushroom compost. The organic mushroom compost is an organic fertilizer that will last up to one year. Water it regularly and see what happens in a couple of weeks.
I will link you to the more variety of plants section as there is a page on Hydrangeas that may help you. I will also link you to the site map as this page has everything that is on the website. Browse through and see if you can find any other information that may help. If you need further help, please feel free to contact me. Hope this helps some and good luck to you. Have a great day!
Kimberly
http://www.landscape-solutions-for-you.c...
http://www.landscape-solutions-for-you.c...
Reply:Peegee hydrangeas are prolific bloomers provided you don't cut them back at the end of the of the season when they have set bud for the next season. So I will be suprised if you have many blooms this season. They bud on last years growth. When you trimmed it during the cold weather it probably died back by exposing the cut stems to the cold.
It will came back by next season, No other pruning is necessary this season other that any dead or crossed branches. Be patient It will come back. Next time only prune off the dead branches and only 1/3 of the total plant and spent blooms.That is the general rule of thumb for pruning any tree, shrub etc. Any more than 1/3 of the total plant puts to much stress on the plant.
So there ya go. Just follow a few simple rules and next season your peegee hydrangea will be revived and as good as new.
Reply:Peegees do tend to die back a bit after harsh winters. Are your dead stems on the windy side? I wouldn't worry about losing the plant however. Just cut out the dead stuff and it will probably grow back just fine.
PeeGee hydrangea - only half of it has leaves?
Hi:
I am a landscaper and designer. The PeeGee Hydrangea is a hardy cold weather shrub. You pruned back in the fall. One question, did you prune the branches at an angle? This is very important for the health of any plant specimen.
One thing you can check right now. Take your fingernail or a small knife and scratch the surface of a branch with no leaves. If it is green it is healthy. If it is brown, it may be shock. You can loosen the soil around the plant and add a good quality fertilizer or add some organic mushroom compost. The organic mushroom compost is an organic fertilizer that will last up to one year. Water it regularly and see what happens in a couple of weeks.
I will link you to the more variety of plants section as there is a page on Hydrangeas that may help you. I will also link you to the site map as this page has everything that is on the website. Browse through and see if you can find any other information that may help. If you need further help, please feel free to contact me. Hope this helps some and good luck to you. Have a great day!
Kimberly
http://www.landscape-solutions-for-you.c...
http://www.landscape-solutions-for-you.c...
Reply:Peegee hydrangeas are prolific bloomers provided you don't cut them back at the end of the of the season when they have set bud for the next season. So I will be suprised if you have many blooms this season. They bud on last years growth. When you trimmed it during the cold weather it probably died back by exposing the cut stems to the cold.
It will came back by next season, No other pruning is necessary this season other that any dead or crossed branches. Be patient It will come back. Next time only prune off the dead branches and only 1/3 of the total plant and spent blooms.That is the general rule of thumb for pruning any tree, shrub etc. Any more than 1/3 of the total plant puts to much stress on the plant.
So there ya go. Just follow a few simple rules and next season your peegee hydrangea will be revived and as good as new.
Reply:Peegees do tend to die back a bit after harsh winters. Are your dead stems on the windy side? I wouldn't worry about losing the plant however. Just cut out the dead stuff and it will probably grow back just fine.
My big beautiful purple hydrangea wilted, why?
I got a 6" pot with hydrangeas's from walmart brought it home and set it where it only got the early early early morning sun then it was completely shaded by the house and it wilted and the flowers died the very next day could it have been from heat because the tempeture got to the high 90's during the day? I'm trying to revive it because the leaves are still green so I brought it in the house and watered it. Will it grow new flowers or just die off?
My big beautiful purple hydrangea wilted, why?
usually plants wilt if they get dried out...or if they can't absorb enough water thru the roots to keep up the upper leaves...basically the leaves transpire or realease moisture faster than the plant can transport more water up to the upper part... if it got up to 90 and it was in a 6" pot ... that sounds like a perfect recipie to dry out... chances are that if you got it in a 6" pot from walmart and it was already blooming ... it was meant to be a house plant... so it isn't used to 90 degrees anyways... keep it inside... can't be sure that it will bloom again... it might if you do it right... but put it in a bigger pot if you can and try slowly acclimating it to your outside shady area...
Reply:re-pot your hydrangea and get some fertilizer and soil specifically for that kind of plant. Make sure the soil stays moist, not soaking wet and slowly start to acclimate it to your weather. If you take extra care with it, you may be able to plant it outside next year.
Park Hotel Ahrensburg
My big beautiful purple hydrangea wilted, why?
usually plants wilt if they get dried out...or if they can't absorb enough water thru the roots to keep up the upper leaves...basically the leaves transpire or realease moisture faster than the plant can transport more water up to the upper part... if it got up to 90 and it was in a 6" pot ... that sounds like a perfect recipie to dry out... chances are that if you got it in a 6" pot from walmart and it was already blooming ... it was meant to be a house plant... so it isn't used to 90 degrees anyways... keep it inside... can't be sure that it will bloom again... it might if you do it right... but put it in a bigger pot if you can and try slowly acclimating it to your outside shady area...
Reply:re-pot your hydrangea and get some fertilizer and soil specifically for that kind of plant. Make sure the soil stays moist, not soaking wet and slowly start to acclimate it to your weather. If you take extra care with it, you may be able to plant it outside next year.
Park Hotel Ahrensburg
Caring for my Hydrangea?
I bought a Hydrangea (blue in color) potted plant about 4 days ago, I am wondering what to do with the flowers once the are wilted. Do I cut the whole thing off, or leave them be. And should they be inside or out. I live in Texas and right now it is anywhere between 65 and 80 degrees? Another thing should the blooms be wilted already?
Caring for my Hydrangea?
Here is a couple of good sites that explain in pretty good detail. Hydrangea's should be planted outdoors and you can do it at this time, although the fall is the best time. If your planting location is not in the hot sun all day it should be fine. There is a strict pruning practice that needs to be followed with hydrangea's or you may cut off next years blooms. The sites will explain and you should follow them to a "T" if possible. Hydrangea's grow best if they have morning sun and afternoon shade, especially in a hot climate where you are located. They like alot of water also. The name "hydrangea" comes from the greek word meaning "watertub".. Good luck!
http://www.abouthydrangea.com/pruning_hy...
http://www.hydrangeashydrangeas.com/prun...
http://www.creativehomemaking.com/garden...
Billy Ray
Reply:Your very welcome. Hope this helps
Billy Ray Report It
Caring for my Hydrangea?
Here is a couple of good sites that explain in pretty good detail. Hydrangea's should be planted outdoors and you can do it at this time, although the fall is the best time. If your planting location is not in the hot sun all day it should be fine. There is a strict pruning practice that needs to be followed with hydrangea's or you may cut off next years blooms. The sites will explain and you should follow them to a "T" if possible. Hydrangea's grow best if they have morning sun and afternoon shade, especially in a hot climate where you are located. They like alot of water also. The name "hydrangea" comes from the greek word meaning "watertub".. Good luck!
http://www.abouthydrangea.com/pruning_hy...
http://www.hydrangeashydrangeas.com/prun...
http://www.creativehomemaking.com/garden...
Billy Ray
Reply:Your very welcome. Hope this helps
Billy Ray Report It
When do you pick hydrangea for dried flowers and how far down the stem do you cut?
Many people in the Tyler area grow and appreciate hydrangeas for their large, showy flowers that bloom late and last several weeks before beginning to wane. One does not, however, necessarily have to bid farewell to the loveliness of these blue, lavender, or pink displays. On the contrary, if they are cut at just the right time, they will last several years indoors without having to fuss with any preservation techniques at all.
The key to having dried hydrangea arrangements in a home with little or no effort is to pick the blooms at just the point when they first begin to lose some color but before the blooms dry on the bush. They will still appear lush and will show some green within the original color of the blooms.
After they have been cut, just pop them into any decorator container or vase and enjoy. Do not add water or any liquid. As they continue to lose moisture, they will retain their color and shape for a long time. Eventually, the green tones will fade to an antique color and finally turn brown. But by then, you will have produced several more crops of hydrangeas to use as replacements.
When do you pick hydrangea for dried flowers and how far down the stem do you cut?
Yes, as stated above, cut just above two leaves. That way you'll get two new stems there. I have had my best no-brainer luck with Hydrangeas late in the season. I cut when the flowers were mostly dry, put them in a vase with no water. And they are still here. You will lose all the leaves. You know how when in Autumn the flowers sometimes are greenish, that is when to do it.
Good luck :-)
Reply:I have heard that it is best to wait until the blooms feel papery but still have good color. I would cut far enough down so that you have a stem to hang them from. If you don't want to cut all the way at the bottom of the stem then cut just above a set of leaves or leaf buds.
Reply:I cut mine in the middle of winter. Was told that that's the best time to prune them (when they're dormant). But I believe you could pick them any time. Cut as far down the stem as you wish. The taller the vase you're putting them in, the longer the stem you'll need. Generally you want to cut them just above a leaf node.
Reply:Well, when I dried mine I cut next to the joint where the stem grew. I picked nice full blooms. Then I hung them upside down and wired them to a rod in my utility room. They dry beautifully and stay a very long time.
The key to having dried hydrangea arrangements in a home with little or no effort is to pick the blooms at just the point when they first begin to lose some color but before the blooms dry on the bush. They will still appear lush and will show some green within the original color of the blooms.
After they have been cut, just pop them into any decorator container or vase and enjoy. Do not add water or any liquid. As they continue to lose moisture, they will retain their color and shape for a long time. Eventually, the green tones will fade to an antique color and finally turn brown. But by then, you will have produced several more crops of hydrangeas to use as replacements.
When do you pick hydrangea for dried flowers and how far down the stem do you cut?
Yes, as stated above, cut just above two leaves. That way you'll get two new stems there. I have had my best no-brainer luck with Hydrangeas late in the season. I cut when the flowers were mostly dry, put them in a vase with no water. And they are still here. You will lose all the leaves. You know how when in Autumn the flowers sometimes are greenish, that is when to do it.
Good luck :-)
Reply:I have heard that it is best to wait until the blooms feel papery but still have good color. I would cut far enough down so that you have a stem to hang them from. If you don't want to cut all the way at the bottom of the stem then cut just above a set of leaves or leaf buds.
Reply:I cut mine in the middle of winter. Was told that that's the best time to prune them (when they're dormant). But I believe you could pick them any time. Cut as far down the stem as you wish. The taller the vase you're putting them in, the longer the stem you'll need. Generally you want to cut them just above a leaf node.
Reply:Well, when I dried mine I cut next to the joint where the stem grew. I picked nice full blooms. Then I hung them upside down and wired them to a rod in my utility room. They dry beautifully and stay a very long time.
I bought a potted Hydrangea sp. Can it be planted in the garden ?
Yes you can, but Hydrangea need shade so don't plant it in full sun.
I bought a potted Hydrangea sp. Can it be planted in the garden ?
May not be winter hardy, check the tag that came with it. If not winter hardy, you will have to repot it for the winter or lose it.
Reply:I have 4 in my garden - 2 whites and 2 pinks. Enjoy!!!
Reply:Yes it can, My Hydrangea's are 5 years old and beautiful, They like a shady area. Feed with Acid food and coffee grounds, they love this. When planting put some root started in the ground for the plant so it roots to the soil.
Good luck enjoy your flowers. In the winter cut them back to about 5 inches high and they will grow again big in the spring.
I bought a potted Hydrangea sp. Can it be planted in the garden ?
May not be winter hardy, check the tag that came with it. If not winter hardy, you will have to repot it for the winter or lose it.
Reply:I have 4 in my garden - 2 whites and 2 pinks. Enjoy!!!
Reply:Yes it can, My Hydrangea's are 5 years old and beautiful, They like a shady area. Feed with Acid food and coffee grounds, they love this. When planting put some root started in the ground for the plant so it roots to the soil.
Good luck enjoy your flowers. In the winter cut them back to about 5 inches high and they will grow again big in the spring.
Hydrangea has changed colour?
I bought a hydrangea in the summer with pink flowers (lacecap?).
Slowly the flowers turned green, now it just looks like a foliage plant.
Hydrangea has changed colour?
Hydrangeas change color based on the acidity of the soil. The more acid...the more colorful they will be. (Lots of acid makes them BLUE!) Green and white indicate a lack of acid, altho the colors fade as the flower dries and ageson the stem. It takes a long time for the plant to display according to the soil (as much time as a year.) Your local garden center or Wal-Mart, will have a soil acidifier. Use according to directions and be patient. Hydranges are VERY tough and in most cases and you can have some fun with the colors! (try adding acidifier to one side of the bush for an interesting color variation.) If I remember correctly, Lace Cap doesn't bloom on new wood so prune it only to shape it and never cut it completely to the ground or too severely, and if you live in colder climate, be sure to mulch it with grass, leaves or newspaper, after the top 2 inches of ground have frozen. In the spring, slowly remove the mulch, so you don't shock it. Keep it watered deeply (slowly add about 2 gallons at a time and make sure the water doesn't run off) in summer dry periods. (sometimes as much as twice a day watering is needed until well established!) Your Hydrangea will reward you well! I own 5 Blue Nikko, Endless Summer Hydrangeas and Love them! They were worth the work!
Also, rule of thumb for perennials....the first year they creep, the second year they sleep, the third year they LEAP!
Hope it goes well!
Reply:Perfectly normal for your hydrangea....Hydrangea Macrophylla "lacecap" will have pink to blue flowers depending on your soils acidity level. Pink would indicate your soil is alkaline. Add Aluminum Sulfate to acidify your soil and turn flowers blue. Keep in mind hydrangea Macrophylla is the only variety where you can control color.
After blooming flowers will fade to green and eventually to brown. Remove dead flowers in late winter or early spring. Nothing to worry about.
Reply:I have never heard of a hydrangea turning green, they often turn blue if there is a high iron content in the soil.
Reply:its to do with the acidity in your soil, ive been told that if you put copper near the roots, the flowers will turn red, or at least reddish.
in facvt i heard somewhere that if you place to copper forks in the ground near an hydrangea, and place a piece of copper filament between them, then touch the filament with a small torch bulb, there is normally enough electical current produced to light it up.
Reply:I planted a pink hydrangea once, and acouple of years later the flowers came out blue. So just wait and see what your plant will do.
Reply:Yep, sounds right ! they can change colour and are very susceptable to soil type.
Add some ericasious compost into the soil and the colour will return next year.
Reply:have you replanted it because the flowers change colour with different types of soil acid soil blue flower and so on have a look on the BBC gardening web site for more information
Reply:Thats normal - leave the flower heads on until the spring, then prune the whole plant.
Reply:you've been sold a dud chop it down to the ground cover with straw or compost right as rain in the spring the weather we get now will not harm it
Reply:The color as changed because of the soil that it is in. In order for your Hydrangea to go back to pink, try putting a few rusty nails in the soil around the plant. I am serious, the soil is lacking iron. Or you could go to a store and pay alot of money for something that you may already have in your garage or shed.
Since your plant has already began to bloom, in may take another blooming season to go back to the color that you prefer.
You can also add tea or coffee grounds to create more acid in the soil. This will turn your blooms into, my personal favorite, light blue.
Reply:All of these answers above mine are correct, but they are not the right answer to your question.
No matter whether the hydrangea blooms pink or blue or something intermediate, for many varieties, eventually the flowerhead's "pretty" color will fade. Many of them fade to pale green, although a few will turn rusty colors like tree foliage, or blush red or show purple streaks when frost/cold hits. In Los Angeles this year we had a record heat wave after this summer's first bloom, and so everyone's hydrangeas bleached almost right away, and turned a a light-but-living brown almost immediately after flowering.
Of interest only because I am surprised by this, one of mine, a variety called Penny Mac, has chosen to bloom again right now. Don't know if it normally does this or not.
Most hydrangeas are not readily fertile to produce seed, so for most of them this is not a big deal in terms of taking energy from the plant. But if your lacecap is an older variety, it might be fertile and these flowerheads will be producing seed.
If you find the green heads pretty, leave them on. If not, chances are good you will have a healthier plant by cutting them off. Be very careful to only cut them off and nothing else, because by this time of year, your next year's blooms are already in the stems.
Reply:The change could be due to the acidic level in your garden soil
roots rain
Slowly the flowers turned green, now it just looks like a foliage plant.
Hydrangea has changed colour?
Hydrangeas change color based on the acidity of the soil. The more acid...the more colorful they will be. (Lots of acid makes them BLUE!) Green and white indicate a lack of acid, altho the colors fade as the flower dries and ageson the stem. It takes a long time for the plant to display according to the soil (as much time as a year.) Your local garden center or Wal-Mart, will have a soil acidifier. Use according to directions and be patient. Hydranges are VERY tough and in most cases and you can have some fun with the colors! (try adding acidifier to one side of the bush for an interesting color variation.) If I remember correctly, Lace Cap doesn't bloom on new wood so prune it only to shape it and never cut it completely to the ground or too severely, and if you live in colder climate, be sure to mulch it with grass, leaves or newspaper, after the top 2 inches of ground have frozen. In the spring, slowly remove the mulch, so you don't shock it. Keep it watered deeply (slowly add about 2 gallons at a time and make sure the water doesn't run off) in summer dry periods. (sometimes as much as twice a day watering is needed until well established!) Your Hydrangea will reward you well! I own 5 Blue Nikko, Endless Summer Hydrangeas and Love them! They were worth the work!
Also, rule of thumb for perennials....the first year they creep, the second year they sleep, the third year they LEAP!
Hope it goes well!
Reply:Perfectly normal for your hydrangea....Hydrangea Macrophylla "lacecap" will have pink to blue flowers depending on your soils acidity level. Pink would indicate your soil is alkaline. Add Aluminum Sulfate to acidify your soil and turn flowers blue. Keep in mind hydrangea Macrophylla is the only variety where you can control color.
After blooming flowers will fade to green and eventually to brown. Remove dead flowers in late winter or early spring. Nothing to worry about.
Reply:I have never heard of a hydrangea turning green, they often turn blue if there is a high iron content in the soil.
Reply:its to do with the acidity in your soil, ive been told that if you put copper near the roots, the flowers will turn red, or at least reddish.
in facvt i heard somewhere that if you place to copper forks in the ground near an hydrangea, and place a piece of copper filament between them, then touch the filament with a small torch bulb, there is normally enough electical current produced to light it up.
Reply:I planted a pink hydrangea once, and acouple of years later the flowers came out blue. So just wait and see what your plant will do.
Reply:Yep, sounds right ! they can change colour and are very susceptable to soil type.
Add some ericasious compost into the soil and the colour will return next year.
Reply:have you replanted it because the flowers change colour with different types of soil acid soil blue flower and so on have a look on the BBC gardening web site for more information
Reply:Thats normal - leave the flower heads on until the spring, then prune the whole plant.
Reply:you've been sold a dud chop it down to the ground cover with straw or compost right as rain in the spring the weather we get now will not harm it
Reply:The color as changed because of the soil that it is in. In order for your Hydrangea to go back to pink, try putting a few rusty nails in the soil around the plant. I am serious, the soil is lacking iron. Or you could go to a store and pay alot of money for something that you may already have in your garage or shed.
Since your plant has already began to bloom, in may take another blooming season to go back to the color that you prefer.
You can also add tea or coffee grounds to create more acid in the soil. This will turn your blooms into, my personal favorite, light blue.
Reply:All of these answers above mine are correct, but they are not the right answer to your question.
No matter whether the hydrangea blooms pink or blue or something intermediate, for many varieties, eventually the flowerhead's "pretty" color will fade. Many of them fade to pale green, although a few will turn rusty colors like tree foliage, or blush red or show purple streaks when frost/cold hits. In Los Angeles this year we had a record heat wave after this summer's first bloom, and so everyone's hydrangeas bleached almost right away, and turned a a light-but-living brown almost immediately after flowering.
Of interest only because I am surprised by this, one of mine, a variety called Penny Mac, has chosen to bloom again right now. Don't know if it normally does this or not.
Most hydrangeas are not readily fertile to produce seed, so for most of them this is not a big deal in terms of taking energy from the plant. But if your lacecap is an older variety, it might be fertile and these flowerheads will be producing seed.
If you find the green heads pretty, leave them on. If not, chances are good you will have a healthier plant by cutting them off. Be very careful to only cut them off and nothing else, because by this time of year, your next year's blooms are already in the stems.
Reply:The change could be due to the acidic level in your garden soil
roots rain
Saturday, November 14, 2009
How do I get my Hydrangea to bloom? Had it 8 years and only bloomed once. HELP!!?
The plants are large and green and healthy, just never blooms
How do I get my Hydrangea to bloom? Had it 8 years and only bloomed once. HELP!!?
Hydrangeas of any species should be planted in the spring time after the fear of last frost or in the fall well before the night time temperatures flirt with 32 degrees. If planting in the fall you should avoid high doses of fertilizer as you do not want soft growth while entering into winter. You are best off using a water soluble fertilizer at ¼ strength and only apply it twice after fall planting. Planting of hydrangeas should be done 45-60 days before the first expected freeze.
The soil should be rich in organic matter and drain well. Avoid planting in highly sandy soils and heavy clay soil. Amend the sandy soil with aged compost and only plant on or near clay if the water will drain away.
Feed your hydrangeas! Hydrangeas are greedy plants and do best when fed enough during the early to middle part of the growing season. I suggest a slow release fertilizer such as Osmocote slow release with minors. An N-P-K ratio of 10-10-10 is fine. This feed can be purchased through my website or at home depot for roughly $5.00 per pound. Aged manure is excellent for adjusting your soil but has a very small kick as far as the N-P-K requirements are concerned. Using aged manure (fresh manure will burn plants) in combination with a slow release fertilizer is ideal if your soil is poor to begin with.
I can't state enough the importance of regular irrigation both after planting and 5 years later even after the hydrangea is established. Newly planted hydrangeas should be watered well once a day if planted in a shadier spot and twice a day if planted in more sun for the first two to three weeks. Really babying them pays off. Established plants really shine if pampered with regular irrigation. I have my display garden on a daily watering cycle for the first half of the growing season and every third day after the heat of August has passed. I stop irrigating and let nature take over in early September.
Propagating hydrangeas top
Hydrangeas are one of the easiest shrubs to duplicate by tip cuttings and layering. Both techniques will be described below starting with tip cuttings.
Take a 4-6" cutting from the tip of a hydrangea in active growth. Rapid growing stems (soft wood) make for better cuttings than late season (semi hard wood) cuttings do. The cutting should have 4-6 sets of bud axilles with the cut in the stem
Remove the foliage from the bottom set of buds and cut the top leaves in half. By removing the bottom foliage and reducing the top foliage by ½, you will be limiting the surface area from which moisture can be removed from the cutting.
Prepare your soiless medium. I use 70% perlite and 30% peat moss. Mix the two products together and fill in your rooting container. You can use a small plastic pot or any type of small container that has a drainiage hole in it. Soak the medium and allow the water to run off.
Dip the cutting in rooting hormone if desired (I don't use the rooting hormone as it is not necessary for hydrangeas) the hormone will increase the rooting time by 5-7 days. Using a pencil, dibble a hole in your rooting medium and place the cutting in roughly 2" and softly pack the medium back in and around the hydrangea stem.
Place the container in an area where there will be no direct light, no wind and no heavy shade. Some people place the container in a clear plastic bag with coat hangers or wood sticks fashioned as a mini greenhouse. This process locks in moisture and also raises the temperature. 70-75 degrees is perfect for successful rooting. Too high of a temperature will cook your cuttings and too low of a temperature will slow the rooting process allowing all of the possible mis-haps to occur while struggling to form roots.
That first soaking should last for a while. Do not overwater. Once the top of the rooting medium looks like it is starting to dry out you can apply more water. Too much water will rot your cuttings and too little water will cause the leaves to droop and eventually die out. In the correct environment, your cuttings should root out in 3-5 weeks depending on weather or not you used a rooting hormone. Tugging on the cutting lightly in three weeks time you may feel some resistance. Wait 3-5 more days and transplant to a larger container. If the cutting pops right up, just leave it alone and check it out in another week. Once transplanted, do not allow the cutting to be placed in direct all day sun. For the first few days place the new plant in morning sun for an hour or so and increase the exposure an hour every day after the first three days by an hour until the plant is able to adjust itself to the full exposure.
1st year hydrangeas should not be expected to overwinter in a frozen state. They must be babied a bit and not allowed to freeze solid as this will more than likely kill them. I have killed thousands of cuttings in the past. Failure is ok as you must try again. In the north, you must place the hydrangea in an area where it will not freeze. After the first winter has passed there is usually enough mass to the stems to survive the second winter exposed to the elements.
Layering hydrangeas top
Working with an existing hydrangea already planted in your landscape or a freshly planted hydrangea of your choosing, layering is an easy and more successful method of propagating then is softwood tip cuttings as previously written about. Each method has it's own benefits. When using the tip cutting method you can reproduce 100's even 1000's of hydrangea cuttings in a relatively small space. When propagating by the layering method you can only get a few plants per stem. While tip cuttings need an aftificial environment to survive, the layering method can be done right there in the natural setting.
Pick a hydrangea shrub in late spring to early summer that has fresh stem growth (green stems). Pull an outside stem to the ground making sure that it will reach and can actually be bent a little further down. Measure out a 6-12" section of the stem that you know will be underground (this is determined when you bend the stem over at the beginning) and mark the beginning and end with a pen or marker.
Make a cut 1/8th of an inch deep and an inch long and leave it attached on one end or just simply make a scratch in the stem an 1/8th of an inch deep and an inch long. Both methods accomplish the same thing. When you injure a hydrangea stem the plants survival instinct takes over and speeds up the rooting process.
Assuming that the surrounding garden soil is good, dig a pre-alligned 6-12" trench that is roughly 2-3" deep.
Pull the ready stem over and press it against the bottom of the trench while backfilling the trench with the other hand firmly packing the soil down. Water well. Place a brick or rock over the buried stem and forget about it and go on to another hydrangea. 1 shrub can produce many new plants this way. Every stem can be used without doing any harm to the plant.
Even though the stem will root out in 1-2 months you are best off leaving it right there until the following spring. Your first thought is "who wants to wait that long"? but since you can't leave a first year tip cutting out during the winter anyway, you can leave a first year layered hydrangea stem out during the winter as long as it is still attached to the mother plant. When you dig the new plant up in the spring you will have very strong shrub that will grow rapidly and more than likely flower the first season.
In the spring dig a small hole around the stem back closer to the mother plant and make a cut in the stem with pruners seperating your new hydrangea from the mother. With a small hand shovel, dig out a 6-8" wide and deep circular hole around the stem and pull up your prize and be ready to transplant to a pot or another are in the garden.
If you have the room and long enough canes on your hydrangea you may do what is called the serpintene method where you burry the lower section as decribed before in the layering method of propagation and bring the stem back up again and down again and back up once. This allows you to produce two plants out of one stem.
Pruning hydrangeas top
There has been much confusion over the years about when to prune or not prune. To make it as simple as possible each species will be listed below along with the correct method for pruning that particular species.
Macrophylla (mophead)
Roughly 98% of hydrangea macrophylla flowers off of old wood. This means that next years flowers are being formed on this years branches. The flowers for next season are usually being formed during and after flowering. My advice is to not prune this species but to purchase the right size variety for the particular area to be planted. Don't buy a 6' tall and wide Nikko Blue to go under a 4' window box. There are so many varieties available that you should be able to find a suitable hydrangea for even the smaller areas of your landscape. A general rule of thumb is the further down you prune a hydrangea macrophylla, the less flowers will form the following season. The other 2% that are the exception to this rule are hydrangea macrophylla 'Endless Summer, 'Penny Mac' and 'All Summer Beauty'. These fantastic varieties flower off of new wood as well as old wood. No matter if you have a severe winter or late frost that would normally damage flower buds, the new growth will contain flower buds that can't be destroyed unless you dry the plant out severely.
Serrata, involucrata and aspera
These species should be treated the same as macrophyllas as far as pruning is concerned. Choose the hydrangea with the ultimate finished height and spread in mind and don't prune to make a hydrangea fit an area that is too small.
Paniculata and arborescens
Both of these species of hydrangea flower off of new growth. Pruning is suggested. While you don't have to be quite this exacting, the following guidelines are what I suggest for best results. In the early spring, before new growth emerges past 2-3 inches, prune your pee gees and or arborescens in half. If the shrub is 4' tall, prune down to 2' tall. This encourages vigorous growth and great structure. You may prune all the way down to 6" nubs if you wish. This will cause rapid growth and enormous flowers which will usually flop over in high wind or the first heavy rain. No pruning at all will result in less vigorous growth and smaller flowers. I have found that pruning down by ½ of the previous seasons growth to be the happy medium. An old overgrown pee gee that is not performing may need to be severely pruned down hard to encourage new shoots and rejuvenate the entire plant.
Anomala petiolaris
Climbers do not need to be pruned. Their growth tends to seem stunted in the early stages however, rapid growth will ensue after the 3rd or 4th year. Pruning can be done if you wish to stop a certain direction of growth.
Altering the flower color of hydrangeas top
The most exciting aspect of hydrangeas is the wide array of beautiful flowers in so many different colors and shades. The fact that you can manipulate the colors only adds to the overall attraction of these garden treasures. There are many different tricks one can use to alter flower color such as pennies and nails stuck in the soil but I will keep it simple and just suggest one recipe for blueing hydrangeas and one for making the flower color lighter or pinker. To go from dark blue or purple to pink and or from pink to blue or purple can take from 3-6 months depending on the soils ph and the amount of aluminum present in the soil. Be patient and plan ahead. Knowing the pH of your soil is helpful but not necessary. Most growers will grow their hydrangeas in a soil that is slightly acidic to near neutral because this is where hydrangeas will take up the most nutrients and perform the best as far as growth is concerned. This is the reason why you may have purchased a specific variety of hydrangea in the past with a certain color in mind only to have the blue hydrangea open pink. If you know your soil is generally acidic then you will need to apply the aluminum sulphate lightly, roughly ½ as often as I recommend for a neutral soil. Dropping your soils pH too far can result in reducing your plants ability to take up nutrients causing poor performance and even death. Don't apply more aluminum sulphate than is recommended.
To blue your hydrangea
In a 1 gallon watering can filled with warm water mix in 1 heaping tablespoon of aluminum sulphate and stir well until the crystals are disolved. Avoiding the foliage, apply the entire gallon of solution slowly to the ground on and around the hydrangea. I water the hydrangea 1 hour before applying aluminum sulphate. This helps to avoid run off of the solution. I then pour one half of the solution and wait a few minutes before applying the rest. Start this application in early spring, before active growth if you need to play catch up, and repeat every 20-30 days until flowering. Once the flowers open you will be able to determine weather or not the desired results have been reached. If not, continue to apply the solution through the flowering of the plant and twice after the flowers have finished. After this you should stop for the winter and start in again in the spring. If you were close to the desired color the year before then you should only apply the solution every 35-40 days until flowering occurs. To maintain that level of pH, you will only need to apply aluminum sulphate 3 times a year or less after reaching the correct level. A pH tester can be purchased at home depot or any garden center and is really useful in determining when and how much aluminum sulphate to apply. You can also purchase aluminum sulphate at home depot as well. I also offer aluminum sulphate through the website and can ship it to arrive with your plants. The desired pH level for blueing hydrangeas is somewhere in the low 5's. 5.2-5.8 is where I experience great blues and purples. Fertilizer does have slight effects on the overall results but, if an even fertilizer is used, The desired results can be achieved without confusing things any further.
To lighten or pink a hydrangea
Success in doing this will depend on the variety of hydrangea as some varieties will simply not lighten to pink. You will also need to raise the pH. In doing this you will stop the hydrangea from taking up any naturally occuring aluminum present in the soil and therefore, stopping the blueing process. Lime is the best way for the home owner to raise the pH level. Add dolomitic lime 3-4 times a year starting in the early spring or even the previous fall. Applying a fertilizer high in phosphorus will aid in keeping aluminum out of your hydrangeas system. On the bag you will see the n-p-k ratio. Phosphorus is the middle number. You will want a fertilizer with an elevated level of phosphorus such as 10-20-10. Foundation plantings are often exposed to higher levels of lime due to the cement foundation itself leaching it out over time. If you are planting up next to the house, you may not need to add anything to the soil for pink flowers. Remember, some varieties will not go pink. In each description of the varieties that I offer I state the color range you will experience.
Transplanting hydrangeas top
The best time to transplant hydrangeas is when the hydrangea is dormant. During this period, you may transplant at any time. Even a mature shrub will need to be babied after transplanting. Irrigate as you would any newly planted shrub. Dig as large a rootball as you think you can handle while leaving fully grown hydrangea transplanting to a landscaper or gardener. The larger the rootball, the less stress and root disturbance will occur resulting in a higher rate of success. If you must move hydranges during the spring or fall after active growth has begun, you can call me toll free at 1-888-642-1333 and we can discuss your individual circumstances to determine the best plan of attack. During this time success rates drop sharply.
Why won't my hydrangeas bloom? top
There are many reason for a hydrangea to fail to bloom. I will start with the most common reasons and go from there.
I have found that the most common reason for lack of blooms is pruning at the wrong time during the season and eliminating the flower buds. My advice is to not prune your hydrangeas other than simple removal of spent flowers which will be pruned off just below the flower itself at the next lower set of buds. You may prune the tops of your hydrangeas after the active growth begins in spring and it is obvious what is dead and what is not. Be careful because even now I am still speculating that certain buds are dead only to notice a few weeks later that the bud I thought was dead is now a stem in active growth. Remember that paniculatas and arborescens can be pruned as they flower off of new growth. There are also some varieties of macrophylla that bloom off of new wood and can be pruned in late season. Those varieties are 'All Summer Beauty', 'Penny Mac' and 'Endless Summer'. It is these hydrangeas that are confusing everybody as to what, when and where to prune or not prune. Don't put yourself in a situation where you are forced to prune. Be patient in the spring and wait for all buds to return before pruning the tips.
Too cold of a climate for successful hydrangea flowering. If you are in zone 5 you will not have luck with 95% of the available mopheads on the market. If your neighbors do not have hydrangeas, other than pee gees or annabelles, you are more than likely in too cold of an area for successful bud return. What confuses things is that the climate seems to be changing and zone lines may shift from year to year. We also are experiencing el nino every 7 years or so and this is causing variations in our winters from mild one year to severe the next year. While the hydrangeas will grow like crazy and give you lots of great foliage, the buds will always burn in a normal zone 5 winter.
Planted in heavy shade. Too much shade can be a cause of non flowering simply because of the lack of energy from the sun. You will notice less flowers gradually as the years go on. Transplant to a sunnier location.
Severe dry spells the season before can and does cause the hydrange to not flower. This can be avoided by choosing a location that is not too sunny and by adding some sort of irrigation system.
While some soils can be so poor as to cause growth and flowering problems, the above 4 reasons are the main causes of a non flowering hydrangea.
Reply:Contact your local garden center. i believe they are acid loving and require acid to bloom. I just can't be sure though. Most garden centers or landscape centers will have the answer for you.
How do I get my Hydrangea to bloom? Had it 8 years and only bloomed once. HELP!!?
Hydrangeas of any species should be planted in the spring time after the fear of last frost or in the fall well before the night time temperatures flirt with 32 degrees. If planting in the fall you should avoid high doses of fertilizer as you do not want soft growth while entering into winter. You are best off using a water soluble fertilizer at ¼ strength and only apply it twice after fall planting. Planting of hydrangeas should be done 45-60 days before the first expected freeze.
The soil should be rich in organic matter and drain well. Avoid planting in highly sandy soils and heavy clay soil. Amend the sandy soil with aged compost and only plant on or near clay if the water will drain away.
Feed your hydrangeas! Hydrangeas are greedy plants and do best when fed enough during the early to middle part of the growing season. I suggest a slow release fertilizer such as Osmocote slow release with minors. An N-P-K ratio of 10-10-10 is fine. This feed can be purchased through my website or at home depot for roughly $5.00 per pound. Aged manure is excellent for adjusting your soil but has a very small kick as far as the N-P-K requirements are concerned. Using aged manure (fresh manure will burn plants) in combination with a slow release fertilizer is ideal if your soil is poor to begin with.
I can't state enough the importance of regular irrigation both after planting and 5 years later even after the hydrangea is established. Newly planted hydrangeas should be watered well once a day if planted in a shadier spot and twice a day if planted in more sun for the first two to three weeks. Really babying them pays off. Established plants really shine if pampered with regular irrigation. I have my display garden on a daily watering cycle for the first half of the growing season and every third day after the heat of August has passed. I stop irrigating and let nature take over in early September.
Propagating hydrangeas top
Hydrangeas are one of the easiest shrubs to duplicate by tip cuttings and layering. Both techniques will be described below starting with tip cuttings.
Take a 4-6" cutting from the tip of a hydrangea in active growth. Rapid growing stems (soft wood) make for better cuttings than late season (semi hard wood) cuttings do. The cutting should have 4-6 sets of bud axilles with the cut in the stem
Remove the foliage from the bottom set of buds and cut the top leaves in half. By removing the bottom foliage and reducing the top foliage by ½, you will be limiting the surface area from which moisture can be removed from the cutting.
Prepare your soiless medium. I use 70% perlite and 30% peat moss. Mix the two products together and fill in your rooting container. You can use a small plastic pot or any type of small container that has a drainiage hole in it. Soak the medium and allow the water to run off.
Dip the cutting in rooting hormone if desired (I don't use the rooting hormone as it is not necessary for hydrangeas) the hormone will increase the rooting time by 5-7 days. Using a pencil, dibble a hole in your rooting medium and place the cutting in roughly 2" and softly pack the medium back in and around the hydrangea stem.
Place the container in an area where there will be no direct light, no wind and no heavy shade. Some people place the container in a clear plastic bag with coat hangers or wood sticks fashioned as a mini greenhouse. This process locks in moisture and also raises the temperature. 70-75 degrees is perfect for successful rooting. Too high of a temperature will cook your cuttings and too low of a temperature will slow the rooting process allowing all of the possible mis-haps to occur while struggling to form roots.
That first soaking should last for a while. Do not overwater. Once the top of the rooting medium looks like it is starting to dry out you can apply more water. Too much water will rot your cuttings and too little water will cause the leaves to droop and eventually die out. In the correct environment, your cuttings should root out in 3-5 weeks depending on weather or not you used a rooting hormone. Tugging on the cutting lightly in three weeks time you may feel some resistance. Wait 3-5 more days and transplant to a larger container. If the cutting pops right up, just leave it alone and check it out in another week. Once transplanted, do not allow the cutting to be placed in direct all day sun. For the first few days place the new plant in morning sun for an hour or so and increase the exposure an hour every day after the first three days by an hour until the plant is able to adjust itself to the full exposure.
1st year hydrangeas should not be expected to overwinter in a frozen state. They must be babied a bit and not allowed to freeze solid as this will more than likely kill them. I have killed thousands of cuttings in the past. Failure is ok as you must try again. In the north, you must place the hydrangea in an area where it will not freeze. After the first winter has passed there is usually enough mass to the stems to survive the second winter exposed to the elements.
Layering hydrangeas top
Working with an existing hydrangea already planted in your landscape or a freshly planted hydrangea of your choosing, layering is an easy and more successful method of propagating then is softwood tip cuttings as previously written about. Each method has it's own benefits. When using the tip cutting method you can reproduce 100's even 1000's of hydrangea cuttings in a relatively small space. When propagating by the layering method you can only get a few plants per stem. While tip cuttings need an aftificial environment to survive, the layering method can be done right there in the natural setting.
Pick a hydrangea shrub in late spring to early summer that has fresh stem growth (green stems). Pull an outside stem to the ground making sure that it will reach and can actually be bent a little further down. Measure out a 6-12" section of the stem that you know will be underground (this is determined when you bend the stem over at the beginning) and mark the beginning and end with a pen or marker.
Make a cut 1/8th of an inch deep and an inch long and leave it attached on one end or just simply make a scratch in the stem an 1/8th of an inch deep and an inch long. Both methods accomplish the same thing. When you injure a hydrangea stem the plants survival instinct takes over and speeds up the rooting process.
Assuming that the surrounding garden soil is good, dig a pre-alligned 6-12" trench that is roughly 2-3" deep.
Pull the ready stem over and press it against the bottom of the trench while backfilling the trench with the other hand firmly packing the soil down. Water well. Place a brick or rock over the buried stem and forget about it and go on to another hydrangea. 1 shrub can produce many new plants this way. Every stem can be used without doing any harm to the plant.
Even though the stem will root out in 1-2 months you are best off leaving it right there until the following spring. Your first thought is "who wants to wait that long"? but since you can't leave a first year tip cutting out during the winter anyway, you can leave a first year layered hydrangea stem out during the winter as long as it is still attached to the mother plant. When you dig the new plant up in the spring you will have very strong shrub that will grow rapidly and more than likely flower the first season.
In the spring dig a small hole around the stem back closer to the mother plant and make a cut in the stem with pruners seperating your new hydrangea from the mother. With a small hand shovel, dig out a 6-8" wide and deep circular hole around the stem and pull up your prize and be ready to transplant to a pot or another are in the garden.
If you have the room and long enough canes on your hydrangea you may do what is called the serpintene method where you burry the lower section as decribed before in the layering method of propagation and bring the stem back up again and down again and back up once. This allows you to produce two plants out of one stem.
Pruning hydrangeas top
There has been much confusion over the years about when to prune or not prune. To make it as simple as possible each species will be listed below along with the correct method for pruning that particular species.
Macrophylla (mophead)
Roughly 98% of hydrangea macrophylla flowers off of old wood. This means that next years flowers are being formed on this years branches. The flowers for next season are usually being formed during and after flowering. My advice is to not prune this species but to purchase the right size variety for the particular area to be planted. Don't buy a 6' tall and wide Nikko Blue to go under a 4' window box. There are so many varieties available that you should be able to find a suitable hydrangea for even the smaller areas of your landscape. A general rule of thumb is the further down you prune a hydrangea macrophylla, the less flowers will form the following season. The other 2% that are the exception to this rule are hydrangea macrophylla 'Endless Summer, 'Penny Mac' and 'All Summer Beauty'. These fantastic varieties flower off of new wood as well as old wood. No matter if you have a severe winter or late frost that would normally damage flower buds, the new growth will contain flower buds that can't be destroyed unless you dry the plant out severely.
Serrata, involucrata and aspera
These species should be treated the same as macrophyllas as far as pruning is concerned. Choose the hydrangea with the ultimate finished height and spread in mind and don't prune to make a hydrangea fit an area that is too small.
Paniculata and arborescens
Both of these species of hydrangea flower off of new growth. Pruning is suggested. While you don't have to be quite this exacting, the following guidelines are what I suggest for best results. In the early spring, before new growth emerges past 2-3 inches, prune your pee gees and or arborescens in half. If the shrub is 4' tall, prune down to 2' tall. This encourages vigorous growth and great structure. You may prune all the way down to 6" nubs if you wish. This will cause rapid growth and enormous flowers which will usually flop over in high wind or the first heavy rain. No pruning at all will result in less vigorous growth and smaller flowers. I have found that pruning down by ½ of the previous seasons growth to be the happy medium. An old overgrown pee gee that is not performing may need to be severely pruned down hard to encourage new shoots and rejuvenate the entire plant.
Anomala petiolaris
Climbers do not need to be pruned. Their growth tends to seem stunted in the early stages however, rapid growth will ensue after the 3rd or 4th year. Pruning can be done if you wish to stop a certain direction of growth.
Altering the flower color of hydrangeas top
The most exciting aspect of hydrangeas is the wide array of beautiful flowers in so many different colors and shades. The fact that you can manipulate the colors only adds to the overall attraction of these garden treasures. There are many different tricks one can use to alter flower color such as pennies and nails stuck in the soil but I will keep it simple and just suggest one recipe for blueing hydrangeas and one for making the flower color lighter or pinker. To go from dark blue or purple to pink and or from pink to blue or purple can take from 3-6 months depending on the soils ph and the amount of aluminum present in the soil. Be patient and plan ahead. Knowing the pH of your soil is helpful but not necessary. Most growers will grow their hydrangeas in a soil that is slightly acidic to near neutral because this is where hydrangeas will take up the most nutrients and perform the best as far as growth is concerned. This is the reason why you may have purchased a specific variety of hydrangea in the past with a certain color in mind only to have the blue hydrangea open pink. If you know your soil is generally acidic then you will need to apply the aluminum sulphate lightly, roughly ½ as often as I recommend for a neutral soil. Dropping your soils pH too far can result in reducing your plants ability to take up nutrients causing poor performance and even death. Don't apply more aluminum sulphate than is recommended.
To blue your hydrangea
In a 1 gallon watering can filled with warm water mix in 1 heaping tablespoon of aluminum sulphate and stir well until the crystals are disolved. Avoiding the foliage, apply the entire gallon of solution slowly to the ground on and around the hydrangea. I water the hydrangea 1 hour before applying aluminum sulphate. This helps to avoid run off of the solution. I then pour one half of the solution and wait a few minutes before applying the rest. Start this application in early spring, before active growth if you need to play catch up, and repeat every 20-30 days until flowering. Once the flowers open you will be able to determine weather or not the desired results have been reached. If not, continue to apply the solution through the flowering of the plant and twice after the flowers have finished. After this you should stop for the winter and start in again in the spring. If you were close to the desired color the year before then you should only apply the solution every 35-40 days until flowering occurs. To maintain that level of pH, you will only need to apply aluminum sulphate 3 times a year or less after reaching the correct level. A pH tester can be purchased at home depot or any garden center and is really useful in determining when and how much aluminum sulphate to apply. You can also purchase aluminum sulphate at home depot as well. I also offer aluminum sulphate through the website and can ship it to arrive with your plants. The desired pH level for blueing hydrangeas is somewhere in the low 5's. 5.2-5.8 is where I experience great blues and purples. Fertilizer does have slight effects on the overall results but, if an even fertilizer is used, The desired results can be achieved without confusing things any further.
To lighten or pink a hydrangea
Success in doing this will depend on the variety of hydrangea as some varieties will simply not lighten to pink. You will also need to raise the pH. In doing this you will stop the hydrangea from taking up any naturally occuring aluminum present in the soil and therefore, stopping the blueing process. Lime is the best way for the home owner to raise the pH level. Add dolomitic lime 3-4 times a year starting in the early spring or even the previous fall. Applying a fertilizer high in phosphorus will aid in keeping aluminum out of your hydrangeas system. On the bag you will see the n-p-k ratio. Phosphorus is the middle number. You will want a fertilizer with an elevated level of phosphorus such as 10-20-10. Foundation plantings are often exposed to higher levels of lime due to the cement foundation itself leaching it out over time. If you are planting up next to the house, you may not need to add anything to the soil for pink flowers. Remember, some varieties will not go pink. In each description of the varieties that I offer I state the color range you will experience.
Transplanting hydrangeas top
The best time to transplant hydrangeas is when the hydrangea is dormant. During this period, you may transplant at any time. Even a mature shrub will need to be babied after transplanting. Irrigate as you would any newly planted shrub. Dig as large a rootball as you think you can handle while leaving fully grown hydrangea transplanting to a landscaper or gardener. The larger the rootball, the less stress and root disturbance will occur resulting in a higher rate of success. If you must move hydranges during the spring or fall after active growth has begun, you can call me toll free at 1-888-642-1333 and we can discuss your individual circumstances to determine the best plan of attack. During this time success rates drop sharply.
Why won't my hydrangeas bloom? top
There are many reason for a hydrangea to fail to bloom. I will start with the most common reasons and go from there.
I have found that the most common reason for lack of blooms is pruning at the wrong time during the season and eliminating the flower buds. My advice is to not prune your hydrangeas other than simple removal of spent flowers which will be pruned off just below the flower itself at the next lower set of buds. You may prune the tops of your hydrangeas after the active growth begins in spring and it is obvious what is dead and what is not. Be careful because even now I am still speculating that certain buds are dead only to notice a few weeks later that the bud I thought was dead is now a stem in active growth. Remember that paniculatas and arborescens can be pruned as they flower off of new growth. There are also some varieties of macrophylla that bloom off of new wood and can be pruned in late season. Those varieties are 'All Summer Beauty', 'Penny Mac' and 'Endless Summer'. It is these hydrangeas that are confusing everybody as to what, when and where to prune or not prune. Don't put yourself in a situation where you are forced to prune. Be patient in the spring and wait for all buds to return before pruning the tips.
Too cold of a climate for successful hydrangea flowering. If you are in zone 5 you will not have luck with 95% of the available mopheads on the market. If your neighbors do not have hydrangeas, other than pee gees or annabelles, you are more than likely in too cold of an area for successful bud return. What confuses things is that the climate seems to be changing and zone lines may shift from year to year. We also are experiencing el nino every 7 years or so and this is causing variations in our winters from mild one year to severe the next year. While the hydrangeas will grow like crazy and give you lots of great foliage, the buds will always burn in a normal zone 5 winter.
Planted in heavy shade. Too much shade can be a cause of non flowering simply because of the lack of energy from the sun. You will notice less flowers gradually as the years go on. Transplant to a sunnier location.
Severe dry spells the season before can and does cause the hydrange to not flower. This can be avoided by choosing a location that is not too sunny and by adding some sort of irrigation system.
While some soils can be so poor as to cause growth and flowering problems, the above 4 reasons are the main causes of a non flowering hydrangea.
Reply:Contact your local garden center. i believe they are acid loving and require acid to bloom. I just can't be sure though. Most garden centers or landscape centers will have the answer for you.
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